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L  I  B  R_A  RY 
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Olokele  Canyon,  Island  of  Kauai. 

(2) 


GEOGRAPHY 


OF  THE 


HAWAIIAN  ISLANDS 


BY 


CHARLES  W.  BALDWIN 


REVISED 


AMERICAN  BOOK  COMPANY 

NEW  YORK  CINCINNATI  CHICAGO 

BOSTON  ATLANTA 


Copyright,  1908,  1920,  by 
CHARLES  W.  BALDWIN. 

Entered  at  Stationers'  Hall,  London. 


GEOG.  H.  I.  REV. 


916. G9 


PREFACE 

The  first  edition  of  the  Geography  of  the  Hawaiian  Islands, 
while  truly  a  home  geography,  has  been  revised  and  amphfied 
in  this  new  edition  more  fully  to  meet  the  requirements  of  this 
phase  of  geographical  instruction. 

The  course  of  study  for  the  schools  of  the  territory  includes 
an  outline  in  home  geography,  which  all  teachers  are  being 
especially  trained  to  carry  out.  There  are  a  number  of  excel- 
lent geographical  texts  that  require  but  few  changes  to  meet 
our  island  conditions.  The  geographies  now  in  use  in  our 
schools  devote  considerable  space  to  home  geography. 

This  text  is  designed  to  be  used  with  grades  below  the  fifth 
as  a  teacher's  desk  book,  the  subject  matter  being  presented 
topically.  In  grades  beginning  with  the  fifth  upward  it  is  to  be 
in  the  hands  of  the  pupil,  and  is  to  be  correlated  with  all  the 
work  in  geography. 

The  author  wishes  to  call  particular  attention  to  the  index  to 
the  revised  edition.  It  should  add  materially  to  the  usefulness 
of  the  book. 

Like  other  texts  in  geography,  this  book  is  brief.  Teachers 
should  make  liberal  use  of  the  references  suggested  on  pages 
125  and  126  of  the  appendix.  Many  of  these  references  are 
from  Hawaii's  Young  People,"  of  which  copies  are  to  be 
found  in  all  the  schools.  The  bound  volumes  of  the  ''Hawaiian 
Annual "  (Thrum's  Almanac)  are  valuable,  as  is  also  the 
*'  Natural  History  of  Hawaii,"  by  Professor  W.  A.  Bryan  of  the 
College  of  Hawaii. 

CHARLES  VV.  BALDWIN. 

Honolulu. 

5 


CONTENTS 


PAGE 

Introduction  •.       .       .       .  7 

Oahu   34 

Hawaii   51 

Maui   87 

MoLOKAi   105 

Lanai   108 

Kahoolawe                                                             .       .       .  109 

Kauai   no 

NiiHAu   120 

Appendices  : 

A.  Capes,  Bays,  Mountains,  Places,  and  Plantations      .       .  121 

B.  Distances  from  Honolulu         ......  124 

C.  Width  of  Channels  .       .       .       .   124 

D.  Area  and  Population        ........  12; 

E.  References  to  Hawaiian  Geography         .....  125 

F.  Pronunciation  of  Hawaiian  Words   .       .       .       .       .  .126 

Index   127 

MAPS 

HAGES 

Hawaiian  Islands   .  8 

Pacific  Ocean  26 

Oahu  ^  S^O^ 

Hawaii  52,  56 

Maui    ...       ^       .......       •  88,92 

MOLOKAI       .         .         o         .         .         .  .  

Kauai  .       .       .      *  no,  iii 

6 


GEOGRAPHY  OF  THE  HAWAIIAN 
ISLANDS 


INTRODUCTION 

The  Hawaiian  Islands  are  a  part  of  an  archipelago  in  the 
North  Pacific,  extending  from  the  island  of  Hawaii  on  the 
extreme  southeast  to  Ocean  Island  on  the  northwest  —  a  dis- 
tance of  about  2000  miles.  With  the  exception  of  Necker 
Island,  the  islands  northwest  of  the  main  group  are  coral  atolls, 
many  of  them  barely  rising  above  the  surface  of  the  sea,  being 
hardly  more  than  reefs  or  sand  banks.  The  largest  of  these 
islands  is  Midway  Island,  which  is  a  lo^w  coral  atoll  nearly  i8 
miles  in  circumference,  inclosing  several  small  islands.  It  is 
prominent  as  a  cable  station.  These  islands  are  probably  the 
tapmost  peaks  of  a  range  of  mountains  extending  northwest 
and  southeast ;  they  have  been  named  as  foUow^s :  Necker 
Island,  French  Frigates  Shoal,  Gardner  Island,  Dowsett  Reef, 
Maro  Reef,  La^  '^an  Island,  Lisianski  Island,  Pearl  and  Hermes 
Reef,  Midway  Island,  and  Ocean  Island.^ 

The  Hawaiian  Islands  proper  consist  of  a  group  of  twelve 
islands  lying  between  latitude  i8°  55'  and  23°  north,  and  longi- 
tude 154°  40'  and  162°  west.  They  are  about  2100  jmiles  i_rom 
San  Francisco,  and  4700  miles  from  Manila.  Eight  of  these 
islands  —  Hawaii,^  Maui,  Oahu,  Kauai,  Molokai,  Lanai,  Niihau, 
^and  Kahoolawe  —  are  inhabited,  and  are  named  in  the  order  of 
their  size.  The  remainder  —  Molokini,  Lehua,  Kaula,  and 
"^hoa  (Bird  Island)  —  are  but  barren  rocks. 

1  "llie  Geographic  Position  of  the  Islands,"  W.  A.  Bryan,  Natural  History  of 
Hawaii,  pages  94-98. 

2  por  pronunciation  of  Hawaiian  names,  see  Appendix  F 

7 


TO 


THE  HAWAIIAN  ISLANDS 


The  Hawaiian  group,  which  formed  along  a  fissure  in  the  eari 
crust  extending  northwest  and  southeast,  consists  of  craters  br 
up  from  the  bottom  of  the  ocean  by  outpoured  lava.^ 

Undoubtedly  the  volcanic  fires  first  ceased  on  Kauai.    As  '  ^ 
'island  is  greatly  eroded  and  has  more  forms  of  plant  life,  it  is  ca  „ 
the  oldest  island  of  the  group  ;  but  some  one  of  the  other  islailtT^ 
even  Hawaii  which  is  still  in  the  process  of  making,  may  ha> 
been  the  first  to  actually  appear  above  the  surface  of  the  orea  ^ 

The  surface  features  of  the  group  are  characterized  by  lo.f 
mountains  with  gentle  slopes,  which  are  cut  up  by  many  gor^ 
of  great  depth.  The  valleys  of  West  Maui  and  Kauai  are  anio 
the  grandest  in  the  world.  The  windward  or  northeast  5/. 
terminate  in  cliffs,  which  on  Hawaii  and  Molokai  are  seve  = 
thousand  feet  high  in  places.  The  upper  slopes  of  the  moj^' 
tains  are  covered  with  a  dense  tropical  growth  of  great  bea/'"' 
which  extends  nearly  to  the  sea  on  the  windward  side.  ; 

Situated  at  the  crossroads  of  the  steamer  routes  across 
Pacific,  the  Hawaiian  Islands  occupy  a  position  of  great  Cj.^ 
mercial  and  strategic  importance,  and  thus  well  merit  / 
appellation  ^^The  Key  of  the  Pacific.''  ^  ; 

Rock.  —  With  the  exception  of  some  uplifted  coral  reefs, 
a  little  sandstone  and  sedimentary  rock,  all  the  rock  of 
group  is  volcanic,  consisting  of  basaltic  lavas. 

This  volcanic  rock  may  be  divided  into  two  general  ^l^^^f 
(i)  completely  fused  lava  (pahoehoe  and  aa),  and  (2)  that  Wi 
has  been  ejected  in  particles  of  various  sizes  and  shapes  (tv  ..  ' 
In  many  cases  the  tufa  was  in  a  partly  fused  mass,  or  conta^^^^ 
cementing  material  which  bound  it  into  loose,  friable  rock.  ^ 

Pahoehoe  and  aa  are  similar  in  composition  and  may  be 
of  the  same  flow.    Aa  presents  a  rough,  jagged  appear  ^ 
while  pahoehoe  is  smooth  lava.    Pahoehoe  is  the  natural;  ' 
for  lava  to  take  in  cooling,  and  just  why  lava  should 
the  aa  shape  it  is  difficult  to  state.^    The  first  part| 

Peop 

1  "Hawaiian  Islands,  How  Formed,"  C.  W.  Baldwin,  EawaiVs  Young  _ 
February,  1898  (1899  on  outside  cover). 

2  "Lava  Flows  of  Hawaii"  (pahoehoe  and  aa),  C.  W.  Baldwin,  EawaiV* 
People^  January,  1902. 


ROCK 


TI 


lava  flow  is  usually  aa,  the 
'fetter  flow  being  pahoehoe. 


'^s  pahoehoe  presents  a 
smooth,  rolling  surface,  ani- 
l4ials  can  find  a  path  upon 

'-  'k  without  difficulty,  but  not 
s^b  with  aa,  which  presents 
ail  impassable  barrier. 
^  The  sandstone,  which  is 
;ea  sand  cemented  by  the 
dme  of  which  it  is  partly  com- 
pbsed,  makes  in  some  cases  a 
^fery  durable  stone  equal  to 
that  found  anywhere.  Some 


if  -  '  the     AngHcan     church  Pahoehoe. 

juildings  are  made  of  this  stone,  which  was  quarried  on 

the  island  of  Oahu. 
'The  blue  lava  rock,  of  which  some  of  the  finest  buildings  in 
lonolulu  are  constructed,  is  a  solid,  compact  pahoehoe. 


Aa. 


Soil.  —  With  the  exception  of  a  small  percentage  of  vegetable 
mold,  all  the  soil  of  the  group  is  formed  by  the  disintegration 
or  weathering  of  lava  rock.    This  soil  may  be  divided  into 


; 

12  THE  HAWAIIAN  ISLANDS 

three  classes:  (i)  lava  soil;  (2)  tufa  soil;  and  (3)  sedimentary 
soil. 

Dark  red  soils  are  formed  by  the  weathering  of  normal  lavas 
(aa  and  pahoehoe)  in  a  warm  atmosphere  with  a  small  amount 
of  rainfall ;  as  in  the  regions  about  Makaweli  on  Kauai  and 
Paia  on  Maui,  and  the  uplands  of  Waialua  on  Oahu.  These 
dark  red  soils  are  always  good  soils. 

We  should  naturally  expect  to  find  nearly  all  the  soil  of  the 
group  dark  red,  and  this  would  undoubtedly  be  true,  were  it  not 
for  the  fact  that  (i)  a  great  deal  of  the  original  material  has  been 
covered  up  under  the  debris  of  the  tufa  cones  which  are  so 
numerous  in  some  localities,  and  that  (2)  normal  lavas  form 
yellow  or  grayish  yellow  soils  when  the  weathering  takes  place 
where  there  is  a  heavy  rainfall. 

While  tufa  has  a  common  source  with  the  other  lava 
rock,  it  differs  radically  from  it,  due  to  changes  caused  by 
the  action  of  steam  and  gases  at  the  time  it  was  ejected. 
Tufa  weathers  as  light  red  and  yellow  soil.  Regions  covered 
by  tufa  soil  are  the  districts  of  Honolulu,  Lihue,  and  Hilo. 
These  light  red  and  yellow  soils  are  not  so  good  as  the  dark  red 
soils. 

In  localities  subject  to  a  heavy  rainfall  the  grayish  yellow  soil, 
formed  from  normal  lavas,  is  likely  to  have  lost  some  of  its 
ingredients,  which  have  been  dissolved  in  water  and  carried 
away ;  this  usually  forms  a  subsoil  covered  by  vegetable  mold, 
which  is  sometimes  several  feet  in  thickness,  as  in  Olaa.  Where 
forests  have  been  cleared  away,  this  subsoil  is  often  exposed 
by  the  washing  away  of  the  surface  layer,  which  accounts 
for  the  poor  soil  in  some  places  on  the  windward  side  of  the 
group,  as  Hanalei  on  Kauai,  Huelo  on  Maui,  and  Kaneohe  on 
Oahu. 

Sedimentary  soils  are  found  in  the  valley  bottoms  and  along 
the  lowlands  of  the  coastal  plain.  As  the  sedimentary  soils 
generally  contain  vegetable  mold,  they  are  usually  of  a  brown 
color.  They  form  the  best  soils  of  the  group.  Lahaina  on 
Maui,  the  Ewa  Plantation  on  Oahu,  and  Kekaha  on  Kauai  are 
typical  sedimentary  soil  regions. 


CLIMATE 


13 


The  action  of  heat  on  our  soil  is  to  turn  it  red  ;  hence  much  of 
the  soil  of  the  group  has  been  burned  red  by  overflows  of  lava.^ 

Climate.  — -  Owing  to  the  trade  winds  which  blow  continuously 
for  nine  months  in  the  year,  and  the  currents  which  cool  the 
ocean  about  the  islands,  the  temperature  of  the  group  is  10° 
lower  than  that  of  any  other  part  of  the  world  in  the  same 
latitude.^  At  sea  level  the  temperature  ranges  from  60°  to  85°, 
with  an  average  of  about  75°.  At  an  elevation  of  1200  feet  the 
temperature  is  70°. 


Summit  of  Mauna  Kea  in  Midsummer. 


The  islands  are  exempt  from  cyclones  or  hurricanes,  and 
thunderstorms  are  rare.  During  December,  January,  February, 
and  March  the  southwest  wind  blows  during  the  cessation  of  the 
trades.    It  is  the  storm  wind  known  as  Kona.  * 

As  a  rule  there  is  a  sharp  contrast  between  the  northeast  or 
Windward  side,  and  the  lee  or  southwest  side  of  the  various 
islands ;  the  former  being  excessively  rainy  and  the  latter  ex- 
tremely arid. 

^  ''Lavas  and  Soils  of  the  Hawaiian  Islands,"  Walter  Maxwell. 
''Cold  Current  System  of  the  Pacific,"  Dr.  Bishop,  Hawaiian  Annual,  1905, 
page  74. 


5 


14  THE  HAWAIIAN  ISLANDS 

Owing  to  the  height  of  the  islands  above  sea  level  a  great 
variety  of  climate  may  be  found,  ranging  from  torrid  heat  af 
sea  level  on  the  lee  side  of  the  group  to  a  freezing  temperature 
on  the  snow-capped  summits  of  the  highest  mountains.  ; ; 

On  the  whole,  the  climate,  which  is  a  remarkably  equable  onfe, 
is  as  nearly  perfect  as  can  be  found  anywhere  in  the  world.  Ail' 
ideal  climate,  coupled  with  its  tropical  growth,  has  given  the' 
group  the  sobriquet,    Paradise  of  the  Pacific."  ;  I 

Vegetation.^  —  The  upper  mountain  slopes  are  covered  witjhi 
a  heavy  forest  growth,  which  reaches  nearly  to  the  seashore  on' 


.\t  the  Si:a  Beach  in  Kona. 


the  windward  side.    At  one  time  these  forests  extended  much 
lower  than  at  present,  but  they  have  been  destroyed  to  a  great 
extent  by  cattle  and  fires,  or  have  given  way  to  cane  fields. 
^  The  flora  of  the  Hawaiian  Islands  may  be  divided  into  three 
groups  :  (i)  indigenous  plants,  which  mainly  comprise  the  upper ' 
forest  growth  ;  (2)  plants  that  were  brought  from  islands  farther 
south  by  early  inhabitants  ;  and  (3)  plants  that  wxre  introduced  ' 
after  the  islands  were  visited  by  Captain  Cook  in  1779. 

^  ''Flora  of  the  Group,"  W.  A.  Bryan,  Natural  History  of  Hawaii,  page  189. 


VEGETATION 


15 


Among  the  trees  of  the  ancient  forest  there  are  a  number  of 
ornamental  and  timber  woods,  as  koa,  kauila,  mamane,  and  ohia. 
From  the  koa,  with  infinite  toil,  the  Hawaiians  hollowed  out  their 
canoes,  using  the  light  wiliwili  and  hau  wood,  for  the  outrigger. 
The  heavy,  hard  wood  of  the  kauila  furnished  spear  and  00 
handles  and  kapa  beaters.  From  the  fiber  of  the  olona  shrub, 
cord  was  made  for  fish  hnes  and  nets. 


Forest  in  Hawaii. 


The  only  woods  from  the  original  forest  trees  that  are  of  any 
commercial  value  now  are  the  koa  (Hawaiian  mahogany),  which 
is  used  in  the  finest  cabinet  work,  and  ohia,  which  makes  ex- 
cellent lumber  for  all  hard  wood  purposes.  A  great  many  young 
sandalwood  trees  have  sprung  up  in  the  forests,  but  not  in  suf- 
ficient quantities  to  warrant  a  revival  of  the  trade  which  nearly 
resulted  in  their  extermination. 

The  plants  introduced  by  the  ancient  Hawaiians  form  a  very 
interesting  group,  as  they  not  only  determined  the  future  agri- 
cultural pursuits  of  the  group,  but  indicate  the  purpose  and 
direction  of  the  early  voyages.    Among  these  plants  are  the 


i6 


THE  HAWAIIAN  ISLANDS 


breadfruit,  coconut,  banana,  taro,  sugar  cane,  ohia  (so-called 
mountain  apple),  mulberry,  hala,  hau,  kukui,  milo,  and  kamani, 
which  yielded  food  and  material  for  cloth,  rope,  mats,  and  other 
domestic  articles.^ 

The  lower  forests  are  composed  of  kukui  (candle-nut  tree), 
hau,  and'  hala ;  the  leaves  of  this  last-named  tree  furnish  the 
material  from  which  are  woven  the  mats  and  hats  that  are  so 


Kukui  and  Hala  on  Waipio  Cliff. 


common  about  the  islands.  On  the  lowlands  near  the  beach 
or  in  the  sand  of  the  beach  itself,  groves  of  coconut  grow. 

When  the  islands  were  discovered  there  were  but  few  fruits 
and  vegetables  to  be  found.  Of  the  fruits  introduced  many  are 
now  to  found  growing  wild,  as  the  guava,  orange,  lime,  mango, 
Cape  gooseberry  (poha),  and  others. 

Animals.^ — At  the  time  of  Captain  Cook's  visit,  in  1779,  hogs, 
dogs,  mice,  domestic  fowls,  lizards,  and  a  few  harmless  insects 

^  ''Introduced  Plants,"  W.  A.  Bryan,  Natural  History  of  Hawaii,  page  231. 
2  "The  Animal  Life  of  the  Group,"  W.  A.  Bryan,  Natural  History  of  Hawaii^ 
page  291. 


ANIMALS 


4 

17 


HooKENA  Beach,  Hawaii. 


were  found,  but  by  far  the  greater  proportion  of  animals  were 
birds,  of  which  there  were  about  seventy  varieties  —  comprising 
a  number  of  small  forest  birds,  waterfowl,  beach  and  sea  birds. 

In  1793  Vancouver  landed  cattle,  sheep,  and  goats  ;  and  horses 
were  brought  later.  Some  of  these  animals  are  now  found  in  a 
half-wild  state  on  parts  of  the  group. 

During  the  months  from  November  to  March  flocks  of  ducks, 
plover,  and  curlew  migrate  to  these  shores  from  the  northwest 
coast  of  America.  Owing  to  the  recession  of  the  forests  to  the 
higher  mountain  slopes,  the  forest  birds  are  fast  disappearing. 
The  mamo,  from  which  the  finest  feathers  were  procured  for  the 
famous  feather  cloaks  of  the  chiefs,  has  long  been  extinct.  To 
replace  the  disappearing,  insect-eating  forest  birds,  a  number  of 
birds  have  been  introduced,  such  as  the  mynahs,  turtledoves, 
larks,  rice  birds,  sparrows,  and  quail. 

On  the  leaves  of  forest  trees  and  shrubs  or  in  the  shrubbery 
on  the  ground  are  found  341  species  of  land  shells  (ach^tinella) . 
These  achatinella  are  peculiar  to  the  Hawaiian  group,  and  excel 
in  beauty  of  form  and  color  the  land  shells  of  any  other  part  of 
the  world.    The  largest  number  are  found  on  the  island  of  Oahu.^ 

^  "Land  Shells  of  the  Hawaiian  Islands,"  D.  D.  Baldwin,  Hawaii's  Young 
People,  May,  1900. 


i8 


THE  HAWAIIAN  ISLANDS 


Experiment  Stations.  —  Territorial  and  Federal  experiment 
stations  have  been  established  in  Honolulu  with  branch  stations 
on  the  other  islands.  Through  the  territorial  Bureau  of  Agri- 
culture and  Forestry  denuded  tracts  have  been  reforested  and 
insect  pests  curbed,  while  the  chief  work  of  the  Federal  Govern- 
ment, through  the  United  States  Experiment  Station,  has  beeb 
the  introduction  and  development  of  new  plants  of  economic 
value.  The  sugar  planters  also  have  an  experiment  station, 
which  makes  a  special  study  of  the  sugar  cane  and  all  that  per- 
tains to  it. 

Through  the  indiscriminate  introduction  of  plants,  fruit,  and 
s^eds  from  other  parts  of  the  world,  many  injurious  blights  and 
insects  have  been  brought  into  the  territory.  Owing  to  the 
mild  nature  of  the  climate,  these  have  multiplied  very  rapidly, 
threatening  to  destroy  many  forms  of  plant  life,  including  some 
of  great  economic  value.  However  by  a  world-wide  search  the 
natural  insect  enemies  of  these  pests  have  been  found,  and  so 
they  have  been  kept  in  check.  The  most  noted  case  of  the  in- 
troduction of  beneficial  insects  was  that  of  the  egg-parasit6  for 
the  leaf  hopper,  when  this  pest  menaced  the  sugar  industry. 
The  most  destructive  of  these  injurious  insects  are  the  cottony 
cushion  scale,  cane  leaf  hopper,  Mediterranean  fruit  fly,  nielon 
fly,  Japanese  beetle,  army  worm,  cane  borer,  and  corn  leaf 
hopper.^  ^ 

^  Industries.  —  The  sugar  output  includes  82  per  cent  of  the 
value  of  the  industries  of  the  group,  which  are  almost  entirely 
agricultural.  There  are  now  about  fifty  plantations  on  the 
islands,  which  in  1918  had  an  output  of  576,852  tons  of  sugar. 
All  of  this  sugar,  with  the  exception  of  that  from  one  plantation, 
is  sent  as  raw  sugar  to  San  Francisco,  Philadelphia,  or  New 
York  to  be  refined,  and  thus,  undoubtedly,  some  of  it  returns 
to  Hawaii.  One  mill  refines  its  entire  output,  but  this  is./ex- 
ported.  Some  of  the  mills  make  a  washed  sugar  for  home  con- 
sumption, which  is  known  as  brown  sugar. 

^  "Important  Economic  Insects,"  W.  A.  Bryan,  Natural  History  of  //a^ca//, 
pages  379  and  390. 

2    Introduction  of  Beneficial  Insects  in  Hawaii," -ffaic'a/iaw^«;n(a/,  191 5,  page  128. 


INDUSTRIES 


19 


CUT'ilAL.  LANE. 


20 


THE  HAWAIIAN  ISLANDS 


Unloading  Cane  on  Carrier. 


INDUSTRIES 


21 


22 


THE  HAWAIIAN  ISLANDS 


Hawaii  is,  no  doubt,  the  most  advanced  sugar-producing  coun 
try  of  the  world.  While  this  is  due  in  part  to  the  introduction 
of  improved  methods  of  harvesting  and  milling,  the  result  haj- 
been  chiefly  brought  about  by  the  efforts  of  the  Hawaiian  Sugr.r 
Planters'  Association  Experiment  Station  in  developing  better  va- 
rieties, and  even  originating  new  canes,  besides  devising  the  best 
methods  for.  the  propagation  and  cultivation  of  the  sugar  cane. 

This  experiment  station,  which  is  located  in  Honolulu,  is  one 
of  the  most  efficiently  equipped  and  organized  experimental 
stations  of  its  kind  in  the  world. 

The  sugar  mills  are  the  most  interesting  features  of  the 
plantations  :  with  all  their  wonderful  processes  from  the  human- 
like unloaders,  and  huge  rollers,  which  press  the  juice  from  the 
cane  stalks,  to  the  swiftly  whirling  centrifugals  where  the  sugar 
making  process  is  completed. 

Most  of  the  plantations  have  complete  systems  of  railway 
tracks  which  connect  the  mills  with  the  fields  and  landings. 
Where  water  is  plentiful,  as  on  the  windward  side  of  Hawaii, 
the  cane  is  flumed  to  the  mill.  When  the  mountain  slope  is 
abrupt,  gravity  roads  and  overhead  trolley  cables  are  used. 

Water  has  been  conveyed  through  miles  of  irrigation  aque- 
ducts to  dry  sections,  so  that  nearly  all  of  the  arable  land  of  tiie 
group  is  now  under  cultivation.  These  ditches,  traversing  as 
they  do  the  most  inaccessible  regions  of  the  group,  represent 
great  feats  of  engineering.  The  water  is  carried  over  the 
gulches  through  huge  siphon  pipes,  and  along  inaccessible 
precipices  in  a  series  of  tunnels  within  the  rock  face  of  the 
cliff.  The  big  ditches  have  a  daily  capacity  varying  from 
30,000,000  to  80,000,000  gallons  of  water. 

In  places  wells  have  been  sunk  and  water  forced  by  powerful 
pumps  through  long  lines  of  pipe  to  higher  levels.  In  other 
sections  water  has  been  secured  by  tunneling  the  mountains. 

With  the  exception  of  the  cane  raised  on  the  windward  side  of 
the  island  of  Hawaii,  all  of  the  sugar  cane  of  the  group  is  grown 
by  irrigation ;  the  northeast  side  of  Hawaii  has  sufficient  rain- 
fall to  raise  cane  without  irrigation.^ 

^  ''The  Sugar  Industry/'  W.  A.  Bryan,  Natural  History  of  Haivaii,  page  271c 


Coffee  Orchard. 


THE  HAWAIIAN  ISLANDS 


Pineapple  Cannery. 


MANUFACTURING 


25 


fThe  pineapple  industry  comes  next  to  sugar  in  the  area  of 
production  and  value.  The  pineapple  plant  grows  best  in  the 
llawaiian  Islands  at  an  elevation  of  from  600  to  1 200  feet  above 
pea  level,  thus  utilizing  land  that  is  too  high  for  sugar  cane.  It 
requires  no  irrigation  because  it  takes  moisture  from  the  air, 
and  thus  it  is  adapted  to  sections  which  have  a  moderate  amount 
of  rainfall.  There  are  canneries  on  the  larger  islands  where  a 
very  fine  grade  of  pineapple  is  put  up. 

Rice  is  grown  on  the  lowlands  near  the  sea  and  in  the  valleys. 
This  cereal  is  raised  chiefly  by  Chinese,  who  as  a  rule  employ 
the  most  primitive  methods  in  cultivating,  harvesting,  and 
milling  their  crops.  At  one  time  Hawaiian  rice  commanded  the 
highest  market  price,  but,  owing  to  the  improper  methods  spoken 
of  in  caring  for  the  crop,  it  has  lost  in  quality  and  now  under- 
sells Japanese  rice. 

Coffee  grows  well  in  sheltered  parts  of  the  group,  yielding 
a  berry  equal  to  the  best  Java  or  Mocha,  which  is  known  as 
Kona  coffee.  Owing  to  the  low  market  price,  many  of  the 
coflee  orchards  have  been  abandoned.  Coffee  is  chiefly  raised 
on  the  island  of  Hawaii. 

Tobacco,  sisal,  bananas,  oranges,  and  limes  are  grown,  and 
bee  culture  is  carried  on  in  places. 

The  lands  of  the  group  not  used  for  agricultural  purposes  are 
occupied  by  cattle  and  sheep  ranches. 

The  ocean  about  the  islands  abounds  in  fish.  In  artificial 
ponds  along  the  shore  mullet  are  raised. 

Manufacturing.  —  Hawaii  does  not  do  much  manufacturing 
because  she  has  neither  coal  nor  raw  materials.  The  plantations 
use  bagasse  for  fuel.  There  are  iron  foundries  which  make 
castings  for  sugar  mills.  Electrically  driven  machine  shops  are 
f{lund  in  the  larger  mills,  so  complete  that  they  can  take  care 
of  all  the  repair  work  and  even  fashion  from  the  rough  castings 
the  huge  rollers  that  are  used  for  crushing  the  cane  stalks. 

In  Honolulu  there  are  extensive  fertilizer  works  where  the 
proper  mixtures  are  made  for  growing  the  sugar  cane  crop. 

Lime  is  made  in  Honolulu,  and  one  of  the  plantations  manu- 
factures Portland  cement.     Other  plantations  make  needed 


27 


28 


THE  HAWAIIAN  ISLANDS 


articles  from  mill  by-products,  such  as  paper  from  bagasse, 
denatured  alcohol  from  mill  refuse,  and  stock  food  from  mo- 
lasses and  algaroba  bean  meal. 

Commerce.  —  Nearly  all  of  the  great  trans-Pacific  lines  of 
mail  and  passenger  steamships  plying  between  Pacific  ports, 
China  and  Japan,  New  Zealand  and  Australia,  make  Honolulu 
a  regular  port  of  call  for  coal,  fuel-oil,  water,  and  provisions; 
for  the  same  reason  the  transports  sailing  between  San  Francisco, 
Seattle,  and  the  Philippines  make  it  a  halfway  station,  as  do 
the  steamship  routes  passing  through  the  Panama  Canal  bound 
for  Chinese,  Japanese,  or  Siberian  ports. 

Besides  these  through  steamers  there  are  direct  lines  of  passenger  and 
freight  boats  plying  between  island  ports  and  San  Francisco.  Also,  a  large 
fleet  of  freighters  brings  breadstuffs,  grain,  oil,  machinery,  and  manufactured 
articles  from  Pacific  and  Atlantic  pous,  lumber  from  Puget  Sound,  coal 
from  Newcastle,  Nanaimo,  and  Japan,  and  nitrates  from  Chile. 

The  island  of  Oahu  is  the  site  for  a  remarkable  array  of  powerful  wireless 
telegraph  stations,  whose  purpose  is  that  of  relaying  messages  across  the 
Pacific  Ocean.  One  of  these,  at  Pearl  Harbor,  is  for  military  use,  the  others 
being  for  commercial  purposes.  An  inter-island  wireless  system  connects 
the  larger  islands  of  the  group.  One  of  the  Pacific  Ocean  cable  lines  lands 
at  Waikiki,  on  Oahu,  where  it  is  connected  with  Honolulu.  This  is  a  relay 
station  in  system  of  the  Commercial  Pacific  Cable  Company,  which  is  an 
American  concern. 

^  History.  —  The  Hawaiians  are  Polynesians,  who  came  from  the 
southeastern  Asian  archipelago,  gradually  spreading  throughout 
the  islands  of  the  South  Pacific  and  finally  reaching  Samoa.  The 
first  migrations  to  Hawaii  were  probably  about  the  sixth  century 
from  the  Society  Islands.  These  early  people  were  bold,  skillful 
seamen,  sailing  by  the  stars.  They  built  large  double  canoes 
capable  of  carrying  provisions  for  a  long  voyage.  Voyages 
were  frequently  made  between  Hawaii  and  Samoa,  and  between 
Hawaii  and  Tahiti,  whence  the  population  was  increased  and 
new  plants  and  animals  introduced.  After  a  time  communica- 
tion with  the  south  ceased,  and  then  for  several  centuries  the 
group  was  cut  off  from  the  rest  of  the  world. 

In  1555  the  Spanish  visited  the  group,  but  kept  their  discovery  secret. 
In  1778  Captain  Cook  found  the  islands,  and  made  their  existence  known 


HISTORY 


29 


to  the  world.  He  named  them  Sandwich  Islands  for  his  patron,  the  Earl 
of  Sandwich.  Cook  first  landed  at  Waimea  on  Kauai;  on  a  later  visit 
he  was  killed  in  a  quarrel  with  the  natives  at  Kaawaloa  in  Kealakekua  Bay 
on  Hawaii. 

In  1795  Kamehameha,  king  of  Hawaii,  united  the  Windward  Islands 
under  one  head  by  the  conquest  of  Oahu ;  and  in  1810  Kauai  was  formally 
ceded  to  him  by  Kaumualii.  Thus  the  group,  which  had  previously  been 
ruled  over  by  a  number  of  independent  petty  chiefs,  was  finally  united 
under  one  head. 

The  Kamehameha  dynasty  continued  as  rulers  until  1874,  when  by 
popular  election  Kalakaua  came  to  the  throne. 

In  1819  idolatry  was  abolished,  and  in  1820,  American  missionaries 
arrived.  They  immediately  reduced  the  language  to  writing,  organized 
the  present  school  system,  and  were  actively  instrumental  in  creating  a 
constitution  and  establishing  laws. 

In  1876  a  reciprocity  treaty  ^  was  concluded  with  the  United  States, 
by  which,  for  the  cession  of  Pearl  Harbor,  sugar  was  admitted  free  of  duty 
to  the  United  States.  This  immediately  gave  a  tremendous  impetus  to  the 
sugar  industry,  and  caused  the  country  to  prosper  to  a  greater  degree  than 
ever  before ;  and  it  was  the  chief  factor  in  making  possible  the  annexation 
of  the  Hawaiian  Islands  later. 

Upon  King  Kalakaua's  death,  Queen  Liliuokalani  came  to  the  throne 
in  1891.  About  two  years  after  her  accession  to  the  throne,  she  attempted 
to  force  a  new  constitution  on  the  people  restoring  the  old  powers  of  royalty. 
This  resulted  in  an  uprising,  when  the  queen  was  deposed  and  a  provisional 
government  estabHshed. 

Upon  the  failure  to  secure  annexation  to  the  United  States 
through  the  opposition  of  President  Cleveland,  the  Republic  of 
Hawaii  was  organized  July  4,  1894,  with  Sanford  B.  Dole  as 
President.  On  the  12th  of  August,  1898,  annexation  to  the 
United  States  was  finally  accomplished.  Two  years  later,  on 
June  14,  1900,  Congress  passed  the  Organic  Act  which  made  the 

^  Reciprocity  Treaty  :  —  By  the  terms  of  the  first  treaty,  passed  by  Congress 
in  1875  a-nd  ratified  by  the  Hawaiian  Legislature  in  1876,  Hawaii  agreed  not  to  cede 
any  port  or  territory  to  any  other  government  as  long  as  the  treaty  lasted,  and, 
further,  to  allow  the  United  States  to  import  free  of  duty  about  everything  it  manu- 
factured or  produced  except  drugs  and  liquor.  In  return  Hawaii  could  send  raw 
sugar,  rice,  and  a  few  other  things  produced  at  that  time  to  the  United  States  free 
of  duty.  In  18S7,  a  new  treaty  was  passed  with  an  added  clause  which  gave  the 
United  States  the  exclusive  use  of  Pearl  Harbor  for  a  naval  coaling  and  repair 
station. 


30 


THE  HAWAIIAN  ISLANDS 


Hawaiian  Islands  a  Territory  of  the  United  States.  This  "Act'^ 
gave  Hawaii  the  same  form  of  government  as  other  territories 
with  the  exception  that,  owing  to  its  distance  from  the  centra 
seat  of  government,  the  legislative  and  executive  powers  are  lc.5; 
strictly  drawn. 

Population.  —  In  1920  the  total  population  of  the  group  wai 
255,912.  When  the  islands  were  discovered,  the  population' 
was  probably  about  250,000;  in  1878,  it  had  fallen  away  to 
57,985.  The  years  following  this  show  a  very  rapid  increase  in 
population,  brought  about  by  the  importation  of  laborers  to 
meet  the  growing  needs  of  the  planters,  due  to  the  impetus  given 
to  the  sugar  industry  by  the  reciprocity  treaty.  These  laborer^ 
were  brought  in  under  the  contract  system,  and  were  chiefly 
Chinese,  Japanese,  and  Portuguese. 

Of  the  present  population  about  three  fifths  are  Asiatics ;  less  than  one 
sixth  are  Hawaiians  and  those  of  Hawaiian  extraction ;  the  balance,  about 
one  fourth,  is  made  up  of  Americans,  Porto  Ricans,  Portuguese  and  other 
Europeans.  The  greater  part  of  this  latter  division  consists  of  Portuguese 
and  Americans,  about  evenly  divided. 

Government.^  —  The  legislative  department  consists  of  a  sen- 
ate and  a  house  of  representatives.    Senators  are  elected  for 
four  years  and  representatives  for  two  years.    The  sessions  of^ 
the  legislature  are  biennial. 

The  executive  branch  of  the  government  includes  a  governor,  secretary, 
superintendent  of  public  works,  commissioner  of  public  lands,  auditor, 
treasurer,  attorney-general,  high  sheriff,  tax  assessor,  surveyor,  and  superin- 
tendent of  public  instruction.  Of  the  foregoing  the  governor  and  secretary  ^ 
are  appointed  by  the  President,  with  the  approval  of  the  Senate  of  the 
United  States.  The  other  officials  are  appointed  by  the  governor,  with  the 
approval  of  the  Territorial  senate. 

The  judicial  department  comprises  a  supreme  court,  and  circuit  and 
district  courts.  The  judges  of  the  supreme  and  circuit  courts  receive  their 
appointments  from  the  President,  with  the  approval  of  the  Senate  of  the 
United  States,  while  the  district  justices  are  appointed  by  the  chief  justice: 

The  Federal  Government  maintains  a  district  court,  district  attbrney; 
marshal,  collector  of  customs,  and  collector  of  internal  revenue ;  also  an 

^  "Synopsis  of  the  Government  of  the  Territory  of  Hawaii,"  Hawaii's  Young 
People^  October,  1907.  bus 


GOVERNMENT 


31 


immigration  station,  a  quarantine  station,  a  weather  bureau,  and  an  experi- 
rnent  station. 

The  Territory  elects  a  delegate  to  the  Congress  of  the  United  States, 
who  has  a  seat  in  the  House  of  Representatives,  but  no  vote. 

Territory  is  divided  into  five  counties :  Hawaii,  Maui,  City  and 
'ounty  of  Honolulu,  Kauai,  and  Kalawao.  Maui  includes  Lanai,  Kahoo- 
lyve,  and  Molokai,  except  Kalawao  County,  and  Honolulu  includes  Mid- 
vay  Island,  while  Kauai  includes  Niihau. 

Education.  —  Education  is  compulsory,  free,  and  universal. 
The  Department  of  Public  Instruction  consists  of  a  superin- 
tendent and  six  commissioners,  who  have  control  of  all  educa- 
tional affairs,  public  and  private,  throughout  the  group.  The 
commissioners  are  selected  to  represent  the  different  islands  as 
follows,  two  each  being  chosen  from  Oahu  and  Hawaii,  and 
one  each  from  Maui  and  Kauai.  Supervising  principals  report 
regularly  concerning  the  work  of  the  schools. 

There  is  a  thoroughly  equipped  normal  school  in  Honolulu, 
which  includes  a  training  school  with  a  full  corps  of  critic  teachers. 
High  schools  are  maintained  at  Honolulu  and  on  Hawaii,  Maui, 
and  Kauai,  and  industrial  schools  for  boys  at  Lahainaluna  on 
Maui,  and  at  Waialee,  near  Kahuku  on  Oahu. 

A  College  of  Agriculture  and  Mechanic  Arts  (College  of  Ha- 
vaii),  established  by  the  Territory  at  Honolulu  in  1908,  is  main- 
viained  jointly  by  the  Territory  and  the  Federal  Government. 

Besides  the  public  schools  there  are  a  number  of  excellent  denominational 
schools ;  as  Oahu  College,  the  Kamehameha  Schools,  St.  Louis  College, 
Mid-Pacific  Institute,  Anglican  Church  Schools,  Convent  of  Sacred  Heart, 
■r  d  Honolulu  Military  Academy. 

Oahu  College,  which  is  situated  at  Punahou  in  the  suburbs  of  Honolulu 
in  parklike  grounds,  is  the  most  thoroughly  equipped  school  in  the  Territory. 
The  curriculum  of  this  school  includes  elementary  grades  as  well  as  a  year  of 
university  studies. 

The  Kamehameha  Schools,  which  were  handsomely  endowed  by  the 
late  Bernice  Pauahi  Bishop,  include  boys'  and  girls'  schools,  which  are 
fr^^y  equipped  for  manual  work.  The  boys'  department  comprises  a  course 
ir,  military  training. 

The, .Mid-Pacific  Institute,  which  includes  boys'  (Mills)  and  girls'  (Kawa- 
i.'J  ao  Seminary)  departments,  is  well  situated  in  Manoa  Valley. 

The  Anglican  Church  Schools,  consisting  of  St.  Andrew's  Priory  for  girls 
•    Tolani  College  for  boys,  are  located  in  the  Cathedral  grounds. 


158  10 


158  0 


32 


OAHU 

Physical  Features.  —  The  island  of  Oahu  lies  midway  between 
Kauai  and  Maui.  It  contains  598  square  miles  and  is  the  third 
in  size  of  the  Hawaiian  Islands. 

In  general  outline  this  island  resembles  a  four-sided  figure, 
the  northeast  and  southwest  sides  being  parallel.  The  points  of 
the  figure  are  Kahaku  on  the  northeast,  Kaena  on  the  northwest. 
Barber's  Point  on  the  southwest,  and  Makapuu  on  the  southeast. 

The  shore  line  of  Oahu  is  much  more  irregular  than  that  of 
the  other  islands  of  the  group.    It  is  this  feature  which  gives 


Copyright,  1904,  by  Rice  and  Pcri^ins. 


Honolulu  Harbor. 

the  island  its  prominence  as  the  most  important  one  in  th( 
group ;  for  excellent  harbors  have  been  thus  afforded.  On  the 
south  there  is  the  bay  on  which  is  situated  Honolulu,  the  capital 
and  chief  commercial  city  of  the  Territory,  and  Pearl  Harbor. 

On  the  windward  side  of  the  island  there  is  the  deep  inlet  at 
the  mouth  of  the  Kahana  Valley,  and  Kaneohe  Bay ;  this  latter 
is  inclosed  on  one  side  by  Mokapu  Point  and  on  the  other  by 
the  Kualoa  headland.  The  so-called  Waialua  Bay  on  the  north- 
west is  hardly  more  than  an  open  roadstead. 

More  coral  is  found  about  Oahu  than  about  the  other  islands. 
Along  the  windward  and  lee  shores  of  the  island  there  are  ex- 
tensive growing  coral  reefs,  and  a  large  portion  of  the  narrow 

34 


PHYSICAL  FEATURES 


coastal  plain  which  surrounds  Oahu,  with  the  exception  of  the 
Kaena  Point  and  Makapuu  Point  regions,  is  composed  of  uplifted 
coral  reefs.    Honolulu  is  built  on  one  of  these  upHfted  reefs. 

At  one  time  the  island  of  Oahu  was  deeply  submerged  (800 
or  700  feet)  and  then  upHfted  (150  or  300  feet).  The  coral  reefs 
were  built  while  the  island  was  depressed,  the  subsequent  eleva- 
tion bringing  them  to  the  surface. 

The. fact  that  the  island  of  Oahu  has  been  depressed  helps 
us  to  explain  some  of  its  features  :  thus  Kaneohe  Bay  is  a  sunken 
region ;  Kahana  Bay  was  the  mouth  of  the  valley  at  one  time  ; 
Pearl  Lochs  may  be  submerged  valleys,  though  undoubtedly 
the  immense  amount  of  fresh  water  which  escapes  beneath  the 
surface  in  this  region  helped  keep  the  passageways  open  by  pre- 
venting the  building  of  the  coral,  and  so  played  an  important 
part  in  the  formation  of  the  Lochs. 

Honolulu  Harbor  was  formed  by  the  coral  reef  which  extended 
across  the  entrance,  an  opening  being  left  in  the  reef  for  the 
escape  of  the  fresh  water  of  the  Nuuanu  and  adjoining  streams. 
This  channel  has  been  deepened  by  dredging,  and  now  forms  the 
passageway  at  the  entrance  of  the  harbor.  The  coral  has  also 
built  across  the  entrance  to  Kaneohe  Bay,  leaving  two  narrow 
but  deep  openings  by  which  vessels  can  enter.  The  interior  of  the 
bay  is  filled  with  coral,  and  is  navigable  only  for  small-sized  craft. 

There  are  a  number  of  small  islands  across  the  entrance  to 
Kaneohe  Bay,  which  are  undoubtedly  summits  of  sunken  areas. 
Mokolii  near  Kualoa  Point  is  the  largest  of  these  islands.  The 
islands  off  Waimanalo  are  of  a  similar  formation. 

Pearl  Harbor.  —  Pearl  Harbor  consists  of  a  nearly  land- 
locked body  of  water  which  is  separated  into  two  main  divisions, 
East  and  West  Lochs,  by  a  long,  low  peninsula.    The  East 
Loch,  which  is  the  larger,  is  in  turn  divided  by  what  is  known 
as  the     Peninsula,"  its  western  section  forming  the  Middle 
I     Loch.    Just  within  the  passageway  to  the  East  Loch  is  Ford's 
^     Island,  which,  with  a  part  of  the  eastern  shore  opposite,  is  the 
\    site  for  the  naval  station.    The  passageway  and  a  portion  of 
I    the  eastern  section  of  the  harbor  have  been  dredged  so  that  the 
l.   largest  ships  may  enter. 


OAHU 


COPYRiGHT  1907  BY  WXPOPE 


36 


37 


38 


OAHU 


Mountains.  —  The  island  of  Oahu  consists  of  two  parallel 
ranges  of  mountains:  the  Koolau  range  extending  along  the 
eastern  side,  and  the  Waianae  range  along  the  southwestern 
side.  At  one  time  these  two  ranges  constituted  separate  islands, 
the  space  between  them  having  been  filled  by  lava  flows  from  the 
Koolau  range,  and  finally  by  wash  from  both  ranges. 

Both  of  these  ranges  have  been  denuded  by  cattle  of  forest 
trees,  except  on  the  higher  slopes.  However,  the  upper  slopes 
have  now  been  made  forest  reserves  and  are  being  reforested. 

Waianae  Range.  —  The  Waianae  range  is  much  older  than  the 
other ;  it  is  probably  as  old  as  Waialeale  of  Kauai.  The  high- 
est point  of  Oahu  is  in  this  range  —  Kaala,  4030  feet  above  sea 
level.  Originally  this  range  was  much  higher  than  it  is  at  present, 
and  probably  consisted  of  a  single  dome  which  had  very  much 
the  exterior  appearance  of  Haleakala ;  but  it  has  been  washed 
down  and  cut  up  by  erosion  until  now  only  the  skeleton  of  the 
former  mountain  remains. 

The  range  is  broken  midway  by  the  Waianae  gap,  through 
which  a  trail  passes  to  the  site  of  the  Waianae  Plantation. 

At  first  sight  it  would  appear  that  while  the  erosion  on  the 
southwest  slopes  of  this  range  has  been  very  extensive,  compara 
tively  little  has  taken  place  on  the  northeast ;  but  later  obse. 
vation  will  show  that  there  has  been  fully  as  much  on  this  side, 
but  that  the  valleys  and  ridges  so  formed  have  been  buried  out 
of  sight  beneath  the  lava  flows  from  the  Koolau  range,  and 
later  by  wash  from  that  range. 

The  Koolau  Range.  —  The  Koolau  Mountains  of  Oahu  are  the 
longest  of  our  island  ranges,  extending  from  Makapuu  Point  to 
Kahuku,  a  distance  of  37  miles.  The  southern  end  of  the  range 
terminates  abruptly  in  Makapuu  Point,  the  base  of  which  is 
washed  by  the  sea,  but  the  northern  end  spreads  out  in  several 
ridges  that  terminate  in  cliffs  overlooking  the  lowlands  I 
tween  Kahuku  and  Waimea  Valley.  Konahuanui,  3105  fe 
high,  and  Lanihuh,  2775  feet  high,  are  the  highest  peaks. 

The  range  is  broken  by  three  gaps  of  erosion,  at  the  head 
the  Nuuanu,  Kalihi,  and  Kaukonahua  ^  gulches.    At  the  Nuuan. 
^  The  Kaukonahua  gulch  is  the  one  that  leads  up  from  Wahiawa. 


MOUNTAINS 


39 


gap  (the  Pali)^  a  fine  macadamized  road  has  been  built,  connect- 
ing Honolulu  with  the  Koolau  side  of  the  island.  The  trails  in 
the  Kalihi  and  Kaukonahua  gaps  are  seldom  used  now,  though 
in  ancient  times  they  were  frequently  traveled  by  the  natives  in 
passing  from  one  side  of  the  island  to  the  other. 

As  the  Koolau  range  is  stretched  directly  across  the  course  of 
the  trade  wind,  there  has  been  a  very  heavy  rainfall  on  the 
windward  side  of  the  island,  and  consequently  great  erosion. 


The  "  Pali." 


So  great  has  the  erosion  been  that  the  ridges  dividing  the  dif- 
ferent valleys  are  hardly  visible  in  many  places,  leaving  an  un- 
broken stretch  of  pah  from  looo  to  2000  feet  high.  Such  is  the 
case  back  of  Kailua  and  Kaneohe.    The  formation  is  so  un- 

^  '  usual  here  that  it  has  been  often  accounted  for  by  the  theory 
that  this  part  of  the  island  was  once  a  crater,  the  northeast  rim 
of  which  slid  off  into  the  sea. 

ii"  .  The  scenery  on  the  windward  side  of  this  range  is  very  grand, 
being  somewhat  similar  to  that  on  the  north  of  Kauai. 


40 


OAHU 


The  lee  side  of  the  Koolau  range  may  be  divided  into  two 
parts  —  that  which  is  protected  by  the  Waianae  range,  and  that 
portion  lying  back  of  Honolulu  which  is  exposed  to  the  Kona 
storms ;  the  former  is  not  cut  up  by  erosion  to  any  extent,  but 
the  latter  contains  many  deep  gulches,  among  which  are  Manoa, 
Nuuanu,  and  Kalihi,  which  have  become  important  suburban 
areas  of  the  city  of  Honolulu.  These  gulches  are  all  fine  ex- 
amples of  erosion,  the  streams  having  worn  their  way  back  to  the 
core  of  the  mountain ;  at  Nuuanu  the  back  ridge  has  been  cut 
through,  forming  the  gap  at  the  Pali. 

Central  Plain  of  Oahu.  —  The  plain  between  the  mountain 
ranges  is  800  feet  high  at  its  highest  point,  near  Wahiawa.  The 
water  north  of  the  divide  flows  to  Waialua  and  that  south  to 
Pearl  Harbor.  So  the  streams  from  both  slopes  of  the  mountain 
turn  at  right  angles,  flowing  either  towards  Waialua  or  Pearl 
Harbor.  This  central  plain  which,  not  long  ago,  was  not  much 
more  than  a  pasture,  presents  to-day,  with  its  well-equipped 
military  posts,  waving  fields  of  sugar  cane  and  endless  rows  of 
growing  pineapples,  a  sharp  contrast  to  what  it  was  then.  This 
change  has  been  brought  about  by  water  development :  artesian 
water  is  pumped  from  wells  along  the  sea  coast ;  a  huge  dam  was 
built  across  a  deep  gulch  to  store  flood  waters ;  and  a  mountain 
range  was  pierced  to  tap  the  streams  on  the  other  side. 

Tufa  Cones.  —  Near  Honolulu  there  are  a  number  of  tufa 
cones  which  not  only  play  an  important  part  in  the  general 
topography  of  the  country,  but  are  of  historic  interest  as  well 
The  most  important  of  these  are :   Koko  Head,  Diamond  Head 
Punch^bowl,  and  the  Salt  Lake  Crater  ( Aliapaakai) .  Thes 
cones  are  composed  of  cinders  and  tufa ;    the  eruptions  whic 
formed  them  were  probably  of  very  short  duration. 

Diamond  Head  is  a  picturesque  as  well  as  a  prominent  feature 
of  the  landscape.  This  interesting  crater  is  in  a  very  good  state 
of  preservation,  the  inclosing  rim  being  intact  except  in  one 
spot  on  the  western  side,  and  its  bowl  is  still  unfilled.  It  is  now 
a  part  of  the  system  of  fortifications  which  defend  the  entrance 
to  the  harbor  of  Honolulu,  and  has  been  named  the  Gibraltar 
of  the  Pacific." 


DRAINAGE 


41 


Punchbowl  (just  back  of  Honolulu)  is  much  older  than 
.Diamond  Head,  its  crater  being  almost  entirely  filled  with 
debris  washed  from  the  sides.  The  material  thrown  from  this 
cone  thickly  covers  the  surface  of  the  coastal  plain  upon  which 
the  main  part  of  the  city  stands.  Punchbowl  was  the  site  of  a 
battery  of  cannon  placed  there  by  Kamehameha  I  to  defend 
the  town.    These  guns  have  now  been  removed. 

The  Salt  Lake  Crater  (east  of  Pearl  Harbor)  is  a  twin  cone. 
In  the  bowl  of  the  larger  cone  there  is  a  salt  lake  which  is  sup- 
posed to  be  connected  with  the  sea.  During  dry  times  a  thick 
crust  of  salt  forms  on  the  surface  of  this  lake.  The  other  cone 
contained  a  fresh-water  pond,  but  this  has  been  drained  away 
and  the  bowl  planted  with  sugar  cane. 

The  peculiar  black  sand  which  is  so  commonly  found  about  the 
city  came  from  the  Tantalus  series  of  tufa  cones,  upon  which 
there  are  now  a  number  of  suburban  residences. 

Drainage  and  Water  Development.  —  Owing  to  the  nature 
and  arrangement  of  its  mountain  ranges,  Oahu  is  not  supplied 
with  as  many  or  as  large  running  streams  of  water  as  are  found 
on  the  other  islands.  Except  in  times  of  southerly  storms,  the 
rainfall  on  the  Waianae  range  is  not  great,  as  the  wind  is  first 
intercepted  by  the  Koolau  range ;  so  that  there  are  only  a  few 
small  streams  on  this  part  of  the  island.  The  trade  wind  carries 
the  heavy  rainfall  of  the  Koolau  range  over  the  top  to  a  part  of 
the  lee  slope.  Owing  to  the  gradual  slope  and  deep  valley  heads 
on  this  side,  a  large  part  of  this  rainfall  is  conserved,  reappear- 
ing lower  down  as  springs  or  underground  streams. 

Artesian  Wells.  —  The  fact  that  a  great  deal  of  fresh  water 
was  escaping  at  sea  level  along  the  south  shore  led  to^  the  dis- 
covery of  the  artesian  storage  basin  of  Oahu,  which  has  played 
such  an  important  part  in  the  industrial  development  of  the 
island  and  in  the  growth  of  the  city  of  Honolulu.  The  first  well 
was  sunk  in  1897  at  HonouliuH,  not  far  from  the  Ewa  Mill.  This 
was  followed  by  borings  in  Honolulu  which  gave  a  fine  flow  of 
water.  Immediately  a  great  many  wells  were  sunk,  some  of 
which  suppHed  water  for  the  city.-  Now  there  are  about  500 
wells  at  various  places  on  the  coastal  plain  between  Diamond 


42 


OAHU 


Head  and  Kahuku.  The  water  in  these  wells  does  not  rise 
higher  than  42  feet  above  sea  level  in  Honolulu.  In  dry  times 
the  general  level  in  the  wells  falls.  Artesian  water  is  found  on 
the  lowlands  of  the  larger  islands,  but  the  flowing  wells,  or 
gushers,  are  peculiar  to  Oahu  and  to  Kealia  on  Kauai.  The 
plantations  use  powerful  pumps  to  force  this  artesian  water 
through  miles  of  gigantic  pipes  to  the  higher  fields. 

The  discovery  of  this  artesian  water  gave  an  immediate  stim- 
ulus to  the  rice  industry,  and  led  to  the  establishment  of  the  ex- 
tensive sugar  estates  on  the  coastal  plain  of  Oahu. 

Waiahole  Tunnel.  —  The  Waiahole  tunnel,  which  pierces  the 
Koolau  range  at  a  point  opposite  Waiahole,  taps  the  streams  on 
the  windward  side  of  Oahu,  bringing  the  water  on  to  the  high 
lands  of  the  central  plain  above  Waipahu. 

An  immense  amount  of  water  was  encountered  in  the  mountain, 
which,  while  it  added  to  the  supply,  greatly  hampered  the  work- 
men and  increased  the  difficulties  of  the  engineer  in  charge.  To 
illustrate  the  magnitude  of  the  work,  there  are  twenty-seven 
intake  tunnels  feeding  into  the  main  tunnel  on  the  Waiahole 
side  and  extending  as  far  as  Kahana.  The  tunnel  has  a  capacity 
of  one  hundred  and  twenty  million  gallons  daily,  but  it  has  never 
carried  more  than  half  of  this  amount. 

Wahiawa  Dam.  —  To  supply  the  fields  on  the  north  section 
of  the  central  plain  above  Waialua  with  water,  a  huge  dam  was 
constructed  across  the  junction  of  the  north  and  south  forks 
of  the  Kaukonahua  gulch  at  Wahiawa.  When  the  dam  is  filled 
the  water  backs  up  in  the  gulches,  forming  a  lake  which  extends 
four  miles  inland. 

Industries.  —  Four  of  the  sugar  plantations  ^  of  Oahu, 
Waipahu,  Ewa,  Waialua,  and  Aiea,  are  among  the  largest  in 
the  group.  All  of  these  are  well-kept  sugar  estates  with  fine 
types  of  mills.  Of  those  named  Ewa  Mill  is,  perhaps,  the  most 
noted  as  it  is  often  visited.  As  the  plantations  of  Oahu  depend 
largely  upon  artesian  wells  for  their  water  supply,  very  little  of 
the  cane  is  flumed,  but  it  is  carried  to  the  mills  by  a  system  of 
both  permanent  and  portable  tracks. 

^  See  Appendix  A  for  list  of  plantations. 


INDUSTRIES 


43 


The  Oahu  Sugar  Company  at  Waipahu  is  the  second  largest 
plantation  in  the  Territory.  Its  cane  fields  extend  from  the 
sea  coast  well  up  on  the  southern  section  of  the  central  plain. 
The  Waiahole  tunnel  supplies  the  higher  fields  with  water. 

The  Ewa  Plantation  occupies  the  low,  flat  lands  on  the  west 
side  of  Pearl  Lochs  and  above  Barber's  Point,  which  is  an  ele- 
vated coral  reef  covered  by  wash  from  the  highlands.    The  soil 


Waipahu  Sugar  Mill. 


is  particularly  well  adapted  for  cane  growing,  the  average  yield 
per  acre  being  greater  than  that  of  any  other  plantation  on  the 
islands.    The  entire  water  supply  is  from  artesian  wells. 

The  Waialua  Agricultural  Company  includes  all  of  the  northern 
section  of  the  central  plain,  its  fields  reaching  up  close  to  Wahiaw^a 
and  on  the  opposite  side  to  the  United  States  Military  Reserva- 
tion at  Leilehua.  The  cane  on  the  uplands  is  irrigated  from  the 
Wahiawa  Dam. 

The  Honolulu  Plantation  Company  at  Aiea  is  the  only  one 
in  the  group  which  has  a  refining  plant,  and  so  completes  the 


44 


OAHU 


manufacture  of  sugar  in  its  own  mill.  The  entire  crop  is  refined 
and  then  exported.  The  cane  fields  of  this  plantation  reach  to 
the  suburbs  of  Honolulu. 

The  Waianae  Plantation  occupies  two  of  the  broad  valleys  on 
the  lee  side  of  the  Waianae  range. 

Kahuku  is  on  the  north  end  of  Oahu  ;  the  cane  planted  at  the 
Mormon  settlement  at  Laie  is  ground  here. 

The  Waimanalo  Plantation  is  a  small  one  occupying  a  flat 
near  the  southwest  end  of  the  island. 


Rice  Fields  at  Moanalua.    Koolau  Range  in  Background. 

On  the  lowlands  about  Honolulu  and  Pearl  Harbor  a  great  deal 
of  rice  is  grown.  On  the  windward  side  of  the  island  it  is  the 
chief  industry,  the  narrow  coastal  plain  of  Koolauloa  and  Koo- 
laupoko  being  occupied  by  an  almost  unbroken  stretch  of  rice 
fields. 

The  central  plain  of  Oahu  is  well  adapted  for  the  growth  of 
pineapples,  which  are  planted  extensively  at  Wahiawa  and  above 
Pearl  City.  Some  of  the  pines  are  canned  on  the  ground,  but 
the  larger  part  are  sent  to  the  factories  in  Honolulu.  There 
are  also  many  pineapple  fields  on  the  windward  side  of  the  island 
in  the  region  about  Kaneohe  and  at  Ahuimanu.  At  the  latter 
place  there  is  a  model  factory  near  the  shore  which  is  visited  as 
one  of  the  points  of  interest  on  the  round-the-island  trip. 

The  pineapple  canneries  in  Honolulu  are  located  near  the 
railroad  depot.  As  the  pineapple  crop  has  a  way  of  ripening 
all  at  once,  a  great  many  carloads  of  ripe  fruit  come  from  the 
fields  to  the  cannery  every  day,  which,  to  be  of  the  best  quality, 
must  be  put  up  in  cans  immediately.    These  factories  are  very 


TRANSPORTATION  AND  COMMUNICATION  45 

large  establishments,  and  it  is  said  that  they  are  the  largest 
canneries  in  the  world. 

There  are  fish  canneries  also  in  the  city,  where  tuna  is  put  up 
for  export. 

There  is  a  lime-making  plant  in  Honolulu  which  manufactures 
lime  from  coral  rock.  Most  of  the  output  from  this  factory  is 
sent  to  the  plantations,  where  it  is  used  extensively  as  a  fertilizer. 

Sisal  is  grown  near  the  Ewa  Plantation  and  on  the  slopes  of 
the  Waianae  range  above  the  Ewa  and  Waipahu  cane  fields,  v/here 
there  are  mills  which  prepare  the  fiber  for  market. 

The  lands  of  Oahu  not  utilized  for  agriculture  are  devoted  to 
cattle  raising.  There  arc  a  number  of  small  ranches  on  differ- 
ent parts  of  the  island. 

Fish  Ponds.  —  Owing  to  the  shallowness  of  the  water  along 
the  shore  and  the  number  of  protected  bays  and  sheltered  coves, 
there  are  a  great  number  of  fish  ponds  about  the  island  of  Oahu. 
These  are  most  extensive  along  the  Koolauloa,  Koolaupoko,  and 
Honolulu  shores.  Most  of  the  ponds  were  built  in  ancient  times  ; 
in  som.e  cases  a  wall  was  built  across  the  entrance  to  a  small 
bay,  but  more  often  semicircular  walls  were  made  inclosing  a 
portion  of  sea  water.  The  walls  were  loosely  constructed  of 
stones  to  allow  free  access  to  the  sea  water,  and  were  provided 
with  gates  so  that  the  fish  could  be  driven  into  the  ponds. 

This  industry  has  almost  entirely  passed  into  the  hands  of 
Chinese,  who  have  repaired  the  walls  of  disused  ponds  and  carry 
on  the  industry  as  they  were  taught  by  the  Hawaiians.  Mullet 
(ama-ama)  are  chiefly  raised  in  these  ponds,  though  awa  and 
other  small  fish  breed  there  also.  When  a  part  of  the  fish  are 
large  enough,  they  are  caught  in  nets.  The  ponds  are  allowed 
to  rest  for  a  while,  when  the  fish  are  again  caught. 

Transportation  and  Communication.  —  The  Oahu  Railroad 
follows  the  coastal  plain  from  Honolulu  to  Kahuku,  from  which 
point  the  Koolau  Railway  makes  an  extension  as  far  as  Kahana. 
At  Waipahu  there  is  a  branch  road  to  Wahiawa  and  the  military 
posts,  Schofield  Barracks  and  Camp  Castner.  While  this  road 
was  built  as  a  means  of  conveyance  to  and  from  the  plantations, 
it  has  naturally  fostered  a  number  of  industries  in  different  parts 


46 


OAHU 


of  the  island  by  affording  a  ready  means  of  transportation  to  a 
market. 

The  Commercial  Pacific  Cable  Company  has  made  Oahu  a 
relay  station  for  its  Pacific  Ocean  system.  The  other  stations 
are  San  Francisco,  Midway,  Guam,  Manila,  and  Shanghai,  with 
a  branch  from  Guam  to  Yokohama.  This  cable  lands  at  Waikiki 
where  it  is  connected  with  the  main  office  in  Honolulu. 

Wireless  Telegraph.  —  Under  "  Commerce,"  on  page  28,  it  was  noted 
that  Oahu  has  been  made  an  important  center  for  wireless  telegraph  plants. 
The  most  powerful  radio-station  in  the  world  is  at  Pearl  Harbor.  It  is 
one  of  the  links  in  the  Arlington,  Darien,  San  Diego,  Pearl  Harbor,  Cavite 
wireless  telegraph  system,  which  is  used  by  the  United  States  government 
for  military  purposes  only. 

The  Koko  Head  and  Kahuku  stations,  which  are  receiving  and  sending 
units  respectively  for  the  Marconi  system  between  California  and  Japan, 
are  the  largest  wireless  stations  in  the  world.  Both  are  operated  from  the 
Koko  Head  station,  being  connected  by  numerous  telegraph  lines.  These 
radio  plants  with  their  many  towering  masts,  24  at  Kahuku  and  12  at 
Koko  Head,  and  the  great  buildings  at  Koko  Head,  give  the  impression  of 
permanence.  Both  of  these  wireless  stations  are  now  controlled  by  the 
United  States  government. 

The  inter-island  wireless  station  for  Oahu  is  located  at  Wahiawa. 

Districts.  —  The  districts  of  Oahu  are  Honolulu,  Ewa  and 
Waianae,  Waialua,  Koolauloa,  and  Koolaupoko. 

The  district  of  Honolulu  is  a  small  one,  but  it  contains  about 
one  third  of  the  population  of  the  whole  group.  Ewa  and 
Waianae  qomprise  more  than  a  third  of  the  island ;  and,  with 
the  Honolulu  district,  constitute  the  most  important  section  of 
the  group.  Koolauloa  and  Koolaupoko  occupy  the  entire  wind- 
ward side  of  the  island. 

Towns.  —  Honolulu,  the  capital  and  chief  commercial  city 
of  the  Territory,  had  a  population  of  83,327  in  1920. 

It  is  well  situated  on  a  protected  bay  on  the  southeastern 
part  of  Oahu,  and  at  the  pass  in  the  mountains  to  the  other  side 
of  the  island.  Back  of  the  coastal  plain  on  which  the  city  stands 
are  a  number  of  broad  valleys  that  serve  as  catch  basins  for  the 
rainfalls,  insuring  the  city  a  good  water  supply.  These  valleys 
become  the  best  residence  sections. 


TOWNS 


47 


The  harbor  has  been  deepened  and  enlarged  and  the  port 
facilities  increased  from  time  to  time  to  meet  the  needs  of  a  con- 
tinually growing  commerce.  Plans  have  been  formulated  for 
a  Greater  Honolulu  Harbor,"  which  will  not  only  further 
increase  its  capacity,  but  give  it  the  required  sea  room  as  well.^  ^ 
The  naval  wharves  occupy  the  eastern  side  of  the  harbor,  while 
the  railroad  slips,  the  main  coaling  pier,  and  floating  dry  dock 
are  on  the  opposite  side. 

Aside  from  the  fact  that  it  is  a  military  outpost  and  a  scenic 
center  for  the  group,  Honolulu  owes  its  importance  entirely  to 
commerce.    It  is  the  distributing  point  for  the  territory,  being 


City  of  Honolulu. 


connected  by  railroad  with  all  parts  of  Oahu,  and  with  the  other 
islands  by  frequent  steamer  service.  Hawaii  is  on  or  near  the 
principal  trade  routes  across  the  Pacific  Ocean,  being  the  only 
place  between  America  and  Asia  where  ships  may  replenish 
their  supplies  of  water,  coal,  and  fuel-oil.  So  it  has  come  about 
that  nearly  all  the  steamships  plying  between  Pacific  ports  and 

^  The  plan  is  to  extend  the  western  side  of  the  harbor  by  dredging  a  channel 
towards  the  Kalihi  basin.  The  southern,  or  Sand  Island,  section  of  this  channel 
will  be  converted  into  wharves  and  slips,  warehouses  being  erected  on  the  site  of 
the  present  quarantine  station,  when  the  whole  will  be  connected  with  the  town 
by  a  belt  road.  This  area  will  serve  as  the  transfer  or  re-assembly  point  in  case 
Honolulu  is  declared  a  free  port. 

2  Through  the  foresight  of  the  Inter-island  Steamship  Company  the  port  of 
Honolulu  has  been  enabled  to  meet  the  demands  made  upon  it  for  the  repair  and 
coaling  of  ships,  brought  about  by  the  expanding  trade  of  the  Pacific  Ocean  due 
to  the  opening  of  the  Panama  Canal.  The  old  marine  railway  has  been  replaced 
by  a  ten-thousand  ton  floating  dry  dock,  and  wharves  have  been  built  and  equipped 
with  the  latest  coal-loading  machinery. 


48 


OAHU 


Asia  and  Australia,  or  those  taking  the  Panama  Canal  route 
bound  for  Asia,  make  Honolulu  a  port  of  call  or  halfway  station. 
Its  unique  position  has  given  Honolulu,  in  common  with  Hawaii, 
the  Territory,  the  name,    The  Crossroads  of  the  Pacific." 

Honolulu  is  modern  in  its  appointments,  having  all  the  conveniences  of 
an  up-to-date  American  city.  There  is  a  fine  electric  car  system,  an  auto- 
matic telephone  system,  many  parks,  playgrounds,  and  places  of  amuse- 
ment. In  the  main  business  area,  near  the  intersection  of  Fort  and  King 
streets,  there  are  some  excellent  mercantile  buildings.  Among  the  many 
churches  and  schools  the  most  noteworthy  are  St.  Andrew's  Catheder:d 


Alexander  Young  Hotel,  Honolulu. 


and  the  three  splendidly  equipped  private  schools  in  the  suburbs  —  Oahu 
College,  Mid-Pacific  Institute,  and  the  Kamehameha  Schools.  Some  of  the 
city's  edifices  are  prominent  as  foreshadowing  its  growth,  such  as  the 
Alexander  Young  Hotel,  the  Moana  on  the  beach  at  Waikiki,  the  Young 
Men's  Christian  Association,  Mission  Memorial  and  Library  of  Hawaii. 
Of  historic  interest  is  the  Capitol,  which  was  formerly  the  royal  palace. 

Some  features  of  interest  about  the  city  are  Waikiki,  Nuuanu  Valley 
and  the  Pah,  the  Round-Top-Tantalus  auto  scenic  drive,  Kapiolani  Park 
and  the  Aquarium  of  tropical  fishes,  the  Pan-Pacific  Japanese  Tea  Garden, 
Moanalua,  Manoa  Valley  with  its  educational  institutions,  the  Bishop 
Museum,  Royal  Mausoleum,  and  the  schools. 

Waikiki  sea  beach,  noted  for  its  surf  boating  and  surf-board  riding,  is 
located  in  the  suburbs  on  a  cove  in  the  shelter  of  Diamond  Head.  The 


OAHU  AN  OUTPOST 


49 


Army  and  Navy  Young  Men  s  Christian  Association. 


beach  is  protected  by  a  barrier  reef  inclosing  a  lagoon  which  has  neither 
undertow  nor  is  it  ever  entered  by  the  larger  sea  fishes.  With  the  tempera- 
ture of  the  water  in  this  lagoon  at  about  78°  the  year  round,  it  makes  an 
ideal  bathing  spot.  There  are  a  number  of  bathing  resorts  on  the  beach, 
the  chief  of  which  is  the  beautiful  Moana  Hotel. 

The  Pali  commands  a  splendid  panoramic  view  of  the  opposite  side  of 
the  island.  It  is  in  the  Nuuanu  Valley  where  Kamehameha  by  his  victory 
over  Kalanikupule  finally  made  himself  master  of  the  group.  It  is  said  that 
the  remnant  of  the  defeated  army  were  brought  to  bay  at  a  point  near  the  Pali, 
and  that  here  they  leaped  to  death  rather  than  sufi;er  the  tortures  of  capture. 

Moanalua  is  a  beautiful  country  residence,  the  parklike  grounds  of 
which  are  open  to  the  public. 

At  the  Kamehameha  Schools  is  the  Bishop  Museum.  The  chief  feature 
of  this  museum  is  its  Hawaiian  collection,  but  it  also  includes  the  world's 
finest  collection  of  Polynesian  relics  and  antiquities.  There  is  also  a  fine 
Hawaiian  and  Polynesian  ethnological  collection  in  the  museum. 

Other  Places.  —  Waipahu,  Ewa  Mill,  and  Aiea  are  important 
plantation  settlements  located  on  the  railroad.  Waipahu,  being 
situated  at  the  junction  of  the  main  line  with  its  branch  to 
Wahiawa  and  the  military  posts,  has  become  the  second  largest 
town  on  Oahu. 

The  pubHc  cemetery  is  located  at  Pearl  City,  from  which  a  branch  line 
of  the  railroad  extends  to  the  Peninsula,  where  there  are  a  number  of  sub- 
urban residences.    Otherwise  this  place  is  of  httle  importance. 

GEOG.  H.  I.  REV.  — 


OAHU 


Watertown  is  the  civilian  settlement  connected  with  Fort  Kamehameha 
and  the  Marine  Barracks,  where  it  is  located. 

Waianae  is  the  only  place  of  importance  on  the  southwest  side  of  the 
island.    It  is  chiefly  a  plantation  community. 

There  is  a  large  settlement  at  Waialua,  which,  while  it  is  scattered  over 
a  considerable  area,  all  goes  by  the  general  village  name.  The  pubHc  school 
here,  which  is  centrally  located,  is  the  largest  of  the  Oahu  country  schools. 
A  fine  hotel  is  located  on  the  beach  at  the  old  landing,  which  is  the  half- 
way house  on  the  round-the-island  trip. 

Kahuku  is  at  the  main  plantation  camp  where  the  mill  is  located.  It  is 
also  the  junction  for  the  Oahu  and  Koolau  railroads.  A  short  distance 
northwest  of  Kahuku,  strung  along  the  shore  in  a  double  column,  are  the 
twenty-four  poles  of  the  great  Marconi  wireless  station. 

Laie  is  a  thrifty  Mormon  village,  whose  chief  occupation  is  the  cultiva- 
tion of  sugar  cane.  The  area  cultivated  extends  as  far  as  Kahana  Bay, 
the  terminus  of  the  Koolau  Railroad,  which  is  operated  by  this  colony. 
A  handsome  tabernacle  has  been  erected  on  the  hill  overlooking  the  village. 

The  other  places  on  the  windward  side  of  Oahu  are  small,  the  only  one 
of  importance  being  Kaneohe. 

At  Waialee,  near  Kahuku,  is  the  Boys'  Industrial  School,  which  is  a  model 
institution  of  its  kind. 

Not  far  from  the  Ewa  Mill,  below  Sisal,  is  the  United  States  Magnetic 
Station. 

Oahu  an  Outpost.  —  The  Federal  government  has  made  of 
Oahu  an  important  naval  and  military  outpost  of  the  Pacific, 
thus  making  this  island  the  strategic  center  of  the  group.  A 
chain  of  forts  along  the  seashore  protects  the  entrances  to 
Honolulu  and  Pearl  Harbors.  Three  splendidly  equipped 
military  posts  have  been  established  on  the  island  :  Fort  Shafter 
in  the  suburbs  of  Honolulu  at  Moanalua,  and  Schofield  Barracks 
and  Camp  Castner  at  Leilehua.  Schofield  Barracks  is  the  main 
infantry  post  and  Camp  Castner  is  the  cavalry  camp. 

Pearl  Harbor,  with  its  big  dry  dock,  the  largest  in  the  Pacific  Ocean ; 
huge  floating  crane,  and  machine  shops,  which  are  the  finest  of  their  kind ; 
and  its  up-to-date  coal  loading  plant,  has  been  equipped  for  a  naval  coaling 
and  repair  station.  So  this  splendid  harbor  of  the  Pacific,  which,  seemingly, 
was  made  on  purpose  for  a  great  naval  station,  is  fulfilling  its  destiny. 

Fort  Kamehameha,  which  defends  the  passageway  to  Pearl  Harbor,  is 
the  main  fortress  on  Oahu.  The  principal  fortifications  protecting  the 
harbor  of  Honolulu  are  Fort  de  Russy  located  at  Waikiki,  and  Fort  Huger 
near  Diamond  Head. 


HAWAII 

Physical  Features.  —  Hawaii  is  at  the  extreme  southeastern 
end  of  the  group.  This  island,  which  is  4015  square  miles  in 
extent,  includes  about  five  eighths  of  the  area  of  the  whole 
group.  It  is  somewhat  smaller  than  Connecticut,  and  larger 
than  Porto  Rico  by  580  square  miles. 


Northeast  Coast,  Hawaii. 


Roughly  speaking,  Hawaii  is  a  triangle,  the  chief  capes  — 
Upolu  Point,  Kumukahi  Point,  and  South  Point  (Ka  Lae)  — 
being  at  the  angles.  On  the  windward  side  there  are  high 
cliffs ;  near  the  Waipio  and  Waimanu  valleys  these  cliffs  are 
several  thousand  feet  high.  Hilo,  Kealakekua,  Kailua,  and 
Kawaihae  are  the  chief  bays  of  Hawaii.  These  bays  were 
formed  by  lava  flows  which  have  pushed  their  way  out  into 
the  sea  oh  one  or  both  sides.  None  of  the  bays  have  protect- 
ing coral  reefs  such  as  are  found  on  the  other  islands.  The  reef 
in  Hilo  Bay  is  a  submerged  lava  flow.  Coconut  Island  is  a 
portion  of  the  same  flow. 

5^  UmVERSiTY  OF  ILLIIniUIS 

LIBRARY 


52 


As  Hawaii  is  a  new  island, 
there  is  little  coral  found  about 
it;  and  its  beaches  are  mostly 
of  black  sand,  or  white  and 
black  sand  mixed. 

The  island  of  Hawaii  consists 
of  the  mountain  masses  of  the 
Kohala  range,  Mauna  Kea,  Hua- 
lalai,  and  Mauna  Loa.    The  sea 
has  eaten  its  way  deeply  into  the 
slopes  of  the  Kohala  Mountains 
and  Mauna  Kea  on  the  wind- 
ward side,  forming  a  long  line  of 
diffs  several  thousand  feet  high 
in  places,  but  no  inroads  to 
speak  of  have  been  made  on  the 
Hualalai  and  Mauna  Loa  slopes 
on  the  opposite  side.   The  spaces 
between  the  mountains  were  wa- 
terways, no  doubt,  at  one  time, 
but  these  were  filled  by  lava 
Hows,  and  are  now  plateaus. 

Kohala  Mountains.  —  The 
Kohala  range  is  the  oldest  of 
Hawaii's  mountains,  being  as* 
old  as  West  Maui  and  Waianae 
of  Oahu.  We  judge  this  to  be 
so  from  the  amount  of  erosion 
which  has  taken  place.  The 
highest  point  of  this  range, 
which  seems  to  consist  chiefly 
of  a  collection  of  cinder  cones, 
is  5489  feet  above  sea  level. 

The  Waipio  and  Waimanu 
region  is  a  part  of  this  range. 
The  remarkable  gulches  and 
stupendous  sea  cliffs  which  are 
found  here  may  not  be  wholly 

53 


54 


HAWAII 


WAiiUU    V  ALLE\   Ai\D  HllLAVVE  FaLL. 


the  work  of  erosion,  but  perhaps  partly  the  result  of  a  great  fault  I 
which  caused  a  section  of  the  coast  here  to  break  off  into  the  sea.  ! 

The  summit  of  the  Kohala  Mountains,  which  is  said  to  consist  j 
of  a  peat  bog,  is  heavily  wooded,  as  are  also  the  windward  slopes. 

The  Waipio  Valley  is  the  largest  of  the  Hawaiian  gulches. 
It  is  not  a  pretty  one,  however,  with  the  exception  of  the  spot 
where  the  beautiful  Hiilawe  Fall  takes  its  plunge  of  1700  feet. 
But  there  is  no  Hiilawe  now,  except  in  very  rainy  times,  for  the 
Kukuihaele  Plantation  has  taken  the  water  for  fiuming  cane.  ' 
This  gulch  runs  back  for  three  or  four  miles  and  then  turns  at 
right  angles,  running  past  the  head  of  the  Waimanu  Valley. 

Waimanu  is  deeper  than  Waipio,  but  is  not  so  wide.  This 
gulch  is  chiefly  remarkable  for  the  amazing  semicircular  pali 
at  its  head,  with  its  numerous  waterfalls.  The  Waimanu  is  a 
short  gulch,  extending  only  four  miles  back  to  the  ridge  that 
separates  it  from  the  Waipio  Valley. 

There  is  a  trail  from  Waipio  to  Waimanu  which  crosses 
twelve  ravines  in  the  distance  between  the  two  great  gulches. 


MOUNTAINS 


55 


In  rainy  weather  this  path  is  not  a  safe  one  to  travel  on  horse- 
back. Both  of  these  gulches  contain  wide  flood  plains,  having 
a  gentle  slope  inland  from  sea  level.  In  their  lower  sections  the 
valley  bottoms  are  entirely  planted  with  rice. 

Mauna  Kea.  —  Mauna  Kea  occupies  more  than  half  of 
the  northern  part  of  Hawaii,  nearly  the  whole  of  the  South 
Kohala,  Hamakua,  and  Hilo  districts  being  on  its  slopes.  It 
is  the  highest  island  mountain  of  the  world,  being  13,825 
feet  high. 


Summit  of  Mauna  Kea. 


Mauna  Kea  does  not  end  in  a  peak,  but  has  a  summit  platform 
about  five  miles  long  and  two  miles  wide.  Upon  this  platform 
there  are  a  dozen  or  more  huge  cinder  cones.  A  great  number  of 
these  cinder  cones  are  also  found  about  the  upper  part  of  the 
mountain  —  they  are  Mauna  Kea's  striking  feature. 

The  north  and  east  sides  of  Mauna  Kea  have  a  heavy  rainfall, 
the  lower  slopes  of  Hilo  and  Hamakua  being  cut  up  by  many 
gulches.  These  gulches  are  of  a  good  size,  but  do  not  compare 
with  those  of  West  Maui,  Oahu,  and  Kauai,  for  they  hardly 
extend  to  the  base  of  the  summit  dome,  while  the  great  valleys 
on  the  other  islands  have  eaten  their  way  into  the  very  heart 


56 


of  the  mountain.  The  upper  part  of  the 
windward  slope  has  not  suffered  much 
from  erosion  yet,  while  the  opposite  side 
shows  scarcely  any  weathering  at  all.  The 
lower  slopes  are  heavily  wooded  on  the 
windward  side  (north  and  east),  but  on 
the  opposite  side  they  are  quite  bare. 

During  winter  storms  this  mountain, 
as  well  as  Mauna  Loa,  is  heavily  covered 
with  snow,  which  reaches  more  than  half- 
way to  the  forest  line  at  times. 

On  the  south  side  of  Mauna  Kea's  plat- 
form, 12,000  feet  above  sea  level,  is  the 
ancient  quarry  of  Keanakakoi,  where  the 
natives  made  their  stone  adzes.  Also, 
among  the  cinder  cones  on  the  summit  is 
Lake  Waiau  —  a  small  lake  of  a  few  acres 
in  extent,  and  haying  a  depth  of  40  feet, 
which  is  fed  from  the  melting  snows. 

Hualalai.  —  Hualalai  is  a  much  smaller 
mountain  than  Mauna  Kea,  but  otherwise 
it  is  very  similar.  Like  Mauna  Kea, 
Hualalai  has  no  crater  on  its  summit. 
Probably  the  craters  on  both  of  these 
mountains  were  filled  with  lava  and  then 
buried  out  of  sight  beneath  the  sand  and 
fragments  thrown  from  the  cones  on  their 
summits.    Hualalai  is  8269  feet  high. 

The  mountain  is  almost  entirely  within 
the  district  of  Kona.  Near  the  sea  the 
slope  is  gradual,  but  above  this  it  is 
abrupt.  The  north  side  of  the  mountain 
is  bare,  but  the  other  sides  are  w^ooded, 
though  not  heavily.  There  are  no  gulches 
whatever  on  the  slopes  of  this  mountain. 

The  last  flow  from  Hualalai  w^as  in  1801. 
This  flow  broke  out  low  down  on  the 
mountain  not  many  miles  north  of  Kailua. 


HAWAII 


Kamehameha  visited  it  and  threw  a  lock  of  his  hair  into  the 
flowing  lava  to  appease  the  wrath  of  Pele. 

Mauna  Loa.  —  Mauna  Loa  covers  the  whole  southern  half  of 
Hawaii  and  a  part  of  the  Hamakua  and  Hilo  districts.  Here 
we  find  the  forces  which  have  made  our  islands  still  at  work  in 
the  volcanoes  of  Kilauea  and  Mokuaweoweo. 


Irail  to  Summit  of  xVIauna  Loa. 


Mauna  Kea  can  be  ascended  easily  on  any  side,  but  not  so 
Mauna  Loa ;  for  on  every  side  there  are  wide  regions  of  the 
roughest  of  lava  flows  extending  from  near  the  summit  to  the  sea- 
shore. Where  there  is  rain,  these  flows  are  covered  with  heavy 
forests,  and  are  fast  being  converted  into  soil,  but  in  the  rainless 
regions  they  are  as  bare  and  rugged  as  when  they  first  came  down 
from  the  volcano. 

The  cones  found  on  Mauna  Loa  mark  the  spot  where  out- 
breaks of  lava  occurred.  The  slope  on  the  upper  part  of  the 
mountain  is  much  less  abrupt  than  that  on  Mauna  Kea.  Like 
Mauna  Kea,  it,  too,  has  the  summit  platform.  Sunk  in  this 
platform  is  its  crater,  Mokuaweoweo  —  the  second  largest  active 
volcano  in  the  world. 


MOUNTAINS 


59 


Mokuaweoweo  is  not  always  active,  but  is  so  only  at  times. 
When  it  is  active,  there  is  a  lake  of  lava  in  the  lower  part  of  the 
crater,  with  playing  fountains,  presenting  a  magnificent  spectacle 
at  night  from  the  brink.  This  activity  usually  lasts  a  few  days 
and  then  the  lava  forces  its  way  through  the  side  of  the  moun- 
tain, making  a  lava  flow.  When  the  lava  thus  finds  an  outlet 
lower  down,  the  eruption  in  the  crater  ceases. 


Eruption  in  Mokuawzoweo  Crater,  1903. 


Night  View  of  Eruption  in  Crater. 


Mauna  Loa  is  13,675  feet  high,  its  platform  being  higher  than 
that  of  Mauna  Kea  ;  it  is  the  cinder  cones  of  this  latter  mountain 
which  carry  it  150  feet  higher  than  Mauna  Loa.  The  crater  of 
Mokuaweoweo  is  3!  miles  long  and  if  miles  wide  ;  it  is  inclosed 
by  walls  from  500  to  1000  feet  high. 

Mauna  Loa,  including  the  crater  of  Mokuaweoweo,  is  one  of 
the  areas  of  the  Hawaii  National  Park. 


Crevice  in  Floor  of  Crater. 


MOUNTAINS 


6i 


Kilauea.  —  The  crater  of  Kilauea,  with  the  region  about  it, 
contains  many  unique  features  of  intrinsic  as  well  as  of  geologic 
value,  and  is  now  a  national  park  area. 

Kilauea  is  on  the  northeastern  slope  of  Mauna  Loa  at  an  ele- 
vation of  4000  feet  above  sea  level.  The  crater  ^  is  three  miles 
long  and  two  miles  wide.  The  side  towards  the  Volcano  House 
is  500  feet  high  in  places,  but  the  opposite  side  is  very  low. 

The  crater  is  a  huge,  lava-covered  pit.  This  pit  rises  towards 
a  spot  near  the  south  side,  giving  it,  as  seen  from  the  Volcano 


Volcano  House. 


House,  the  appearance  of  being  nearly  filled.  At  one  time  the 
crater  was  much  deeper  than  it  is  now,  containing  a  pit  within  a 
pit.  But  the  lava  has  buried  the  lower  pit  out  of  sight  and  is 
gradually  filHng  the  other.  Formerly  a  lake  of  lava  was  always 
to  be  found  in  the  crater  of  Kilauea,  but  of  late  this  lake  has  dis- 
appeared at  times.  At  such  times  there  is  a  huge  pit  (Hale- 
maumau)  where  the  lake  was,  from  which  a  dense  cloud  of 
sulphurous  smoke  constantly  rises,  and  spots  about  the  pit  are 
very  hot.  In  1918,  this  pit  was  partly  filled  with  molten  lava, 
which  subsided  after  actually  overflowing  the  brink  on  to  the 

1  ''Crater  of  Kilauea,"  Charles. W.  Baldwin,  Hawaii's  Young  People,  November, 
1900. 


62 


HAWAII 


floor  of  the  main  crater.  It  is  hard  to  imagine  a  grander  or  more 
inspiring  spectacle  than  that  of  Kilauea  in  action.  It  may  be 
that  Kilauea's  fires  will  cease  again  for  a  time,  but  this  great 
crater,  with  the  added  features  of  its  surrounding  area,  will 
always  be  an  object  of  absorbing  interest. 

Among  the  many  points  of  interest  near  Kilauea  are  the  sulphur  banks, 
tree  molds,  koa  and  fern  forests,  deep  pit  craters  of  Kilauea  Iki  and  Kea- 
nakakoi,  craters  on  the  Puna  trail,  and  the  desert  region  south  of  the 
crater.  A  seven-mile  auto-driveway,  terminating  on  the  crater  floor  near 
the  fire-pit,  Halemaumau,  presents  many  interesting  features. 

On  the  brink  of  the  crater  near  the  Volcano  House  is  the  observatory 
of  the  Hawaiian  Volcano  Research  Society.  It  is  equipped  with  all  the 
modern  instruments  necessary  for  the  study  of  volcanic  phenomena. 

Hawaii  National  Park.  —  The  three  areas  which  include  the 
craters  of  Kilauea,  Mauna  Loa  (Mokuaweoweo),  and  Haleakala 
on  Maui  constitute  the  Hawaii  National  Park,  and  as  such  they 
are  listed  with  and  are  subject  to  the  rules  and  regulations 
governing  the  great  national  playgrounds  of  the  American  people.^ 

Table-lands.  —  The  grass-covered  table-land  between  the 
Kohala  Mountains  and  Mauna  Kea  is  from  2500  to  3000  feet  high. 
While  this  plateau  is  devoted  almost  entirely  to  cattle  raising, 
it  has  an  excellent  soil  and  a  climate  well  suited  to  the  growing 
of  many  farm  crops. 

The  plateau  between  Mauna  Kea  and  Mauna  Loa  is  from 
5000  to  6000  feet  high.  In  contrast  to  the  other  one  this  is  but 
a  tangled  mass  of  lava  flows  of  the  roughest  kind.  A  large 
number  of  the  more  recent  flows  from  Mauna  Loa  have  passed 
over  this  region,  flowing  to  the  sea  between  Puako  and  Kiholo, 
or  towards  Hilo.  As  the  greater  part  of  the  plateau  is  in  the 
rainless  region  between  the  two  mountains,  even  the  oldest  of 
the  lava  flows  have  changed  but  little.  The  Humuula  Sheep 
Station  uses  part  of  the  region  as  a  sheep  pasture,  but  the  larger 
part  of  the  plateau  must  remain  forever  a  useless  lava  waste. 

Lava  Flows.  —  A  striking  feature  of  Hawaii  is  its  lava-cov- 
ered regions  and  lava  flows.    In  the  rainless  sections  many  of 

^  See  report  of  Director  of  National  Park  Service  for  191 7  and  1918. 


LAVA  FLOWS 


63 


Trail  over  Lava  Field. 


the  flows  look  nev^,  but  no  one  knows  when  they  occurred. 
Within  the  last  hundred  years  there  have  been  eleven  great  flows  ; 
nine  from  Mauna  Loa,  one  from  Hualalai,  and  one  from  Kilauea.^ 

Five  of  the  flows  broke  from  a  spot  on  Mauna  Loa's  north- 
eastern slope,  11,000  feet  high.  Three  of  the  flows  (1852,  1855, 
and  1 881)  which  broke  from  this  spot  seriously  threatened  the 
town  of  Hilo ;  one  of  them,  the  1881  flow,  came  within  three 
quarters  of  a  mile  of  Waiakea,  and  the  1855  flow  was  seven  miles 
from  the  town,  when,  for  some  unknown  reason,  it  began  spread- 
ing and  banking,  which  continued  for  thirteen  months. 

Three  of  the  flows  (1868,  1887,  and  1907)  broke  out  on  the 
southern  slope,  and  one  (1859)  on  the  northwestern  slope  of  the 
mountain,  flowing  around  Hualalai  into  the  sea  at  Kiholo. 

The  flow  of  1840  from  Kilauea  forced  its  way  along  just  be- 
low the  surface,  finally  breaking  out  and  flowing  eight  miles  to 
the  sea  in  Puna.  The  flows  from  Kilauea  have  usually  occurred 
in  this  manner.    They  have  flowed  chiefly  over  Puna. 

Usually  these  lava  flows  have  broken  out  very  quietly,  a 
bright  light  upon  the  mountain  side  being  the  only  indication 

^  ''Lava  Flows  of  Hawaii,"  C.  W.  Baldwin,  Hawaii s  Young  People,  December, 
1901 ;  January,  1902. 


64 


HAWAII 


that  an  eruption  was  in  progress.  The  1868  eruption  was  an 
exception^  for  a  week  before  this  outbreak  occurred  the  Kau 
district  was  shaken  by  the  most  fearful  earthquakes.  The  lava 
finally  forced  its  way  out  through  a  long  rent  in  the  mountain 
side  two  miles  above  the  present  Kahuku  Ranch  houses,  pour- 
ing out  an  overwhelming  flood,  which  soon  reached  the  sea. 

During  one  of  the  heaviest  of  the  1868  earthquakes  a  water- 
soaked  pali  near  the  Kapapala  Ranch  in  Kau  was  torn  off  and 
hurled  down  over  the  land  a  distance  of  three  or  four  miles, 
overwhelming  a  native  village.  This  is  known  as  the  Mud 
Flow  ;  thirty  lives  were  lost  in  it.  (The  Mud  Flow  is  now 
planted  with  sugar  cane,  the  best  cane  grown  on  the  Pahala 
Plantation  being  on  the  flow.) 

This  same  earthquake  caused  a  disastrous  tidal  wave  to  sweep 
the  Puna  and  Kau  coasts,  destroying  the  village  of  Honuapo  and 
drowning  a  number  of  people.  It  also  opened  a  deep  fissure 
(1868  Crack)  eighteen  miles  in  length,  through  the  lower  end  of 
which,  at  a  point  above  the  sea  between  Punaluu  and  the  old 
Keauhou  landing,  the  lake  of  lava  in  the  crater  of  Kilauea 
emptied  itself,  forming  a  pahoehoe  flow. 

It  is  not  known  that  any  lives  have  been  lost  in  the  lava  flows 
of  Hawaii.  These  flows  have  passed  over  waste  regions,  with 
the  exception  of  those  of  1868  and  1887,  which  destroyed  the 
best  of  the  Kahuku  pastures. 

Mokuaweoweo  was  usually  active  a  few  days  before  one  of 
these  outbreaks,  the  activity  in  the  crater  ceasing  when  the  lava 
forced  its  way  out  lower  down.  The  lava  pouring  out  in  a  great 
fountain  of  fire,  and  the  fiery  stream  hurrying  down  the  moun- 
tain side,  presented  a  spectacle  seldom  equaled  for  grandeur. 

Climate.  —  Owing  to  the  height  and  position  of  its  mountains, 
Hawaii  has  a  greater  variety  of  climate  than  the  other  islands  of 
the  group.  Usually  the  trade  wind  reaches  nearly  all  parts  of 
our  islands  by  blowing  over  and  around  them,  but  the  mountains 
of  Hawaii  are  too  high  and  large,  hence  the  whole  western  side 
of  the  island,  which  includes  the  larger  part  of  South  Kohala 
and  both  the  Konas,  is  entirely  free  from  this  wind. 

That  portion  of  the  island  sheltered  from  the  trade  wind  is 


CLIMATE 


65 


generally  dry^  but  Kona  is  an  exception  to  the  rule.  There  is  a 
dry  belt  near  the  sea,  a  mile  or  so  wide,  but  above  this  the  rain- 
fall is  abundant.  The  mountain  slope  a  short  distance  back 
from  the  shore  is  abrupt,  hence  the  sea  breeze  is  turned  up- 
wards, meeting  the  colder  air  above  before  it  has  had  a  chance 
to  lose  its  moisture,  and  rain  is  the  result.  Kona's  rainy  season 
is  during  the  summer  months,  and  its  dry  season  in  the  winter. 

The  region  extending  from  Kalapana  in  Puna  on  one  side  to 
Papaaloa  in  Hilo  on  the  other  is  directly  exposed  to  the  trades, 
yet  this  wind  is  seldom  felt  here.  This  is  due  to  the  position  of 
the  mountains  back  of  this  part  of  the  island,  which  check 
the  wind,  turning  it  upward  and  to  one  side.  The  moisture- 
laden  wind  thus  turned  upwards  meets  the  cold  air  above,  and 
causes  the  heavy  rainfall  of  this  region.  The  town  of  Hilo, 
which  is  near  the  center  of  this  tract,  has  been  well  named  the 

Rainy  City,"  having  as  great  a  rainfall  as  almost  any  place  in 
the  world.  Owing  to  the  heavy  rainfall  the  Hilo  and  Puna  dis- 
tricts are  covered  with  dense  forests. 

The  rainless  regions  of  Hawaii  are  the  plateau  between  Mauna 
Loa  and  Mauna  Kea,  a  wide  district  from  Kawaihae  to  Kiholo, 
and  a  belt  of  land  near  the  sea  extending  through  Kona,  Kau, 
and  into  southern  Puna.  This  dry  belt  is  very  narrow  in  Kona, 
but  widens  before  South  Point  is  reached  in  Kau. 

The  larger  part  of  this  rainless  tract  is  covered  with  lava  flows 
which  appear  quite  fresh,  though  they  may  be  hundreds  of  years 
old.  The  regions  from  Puako  to  Kiholo,  Hoopuloa  to  South 
Point,  and  between  Punaluu  and  Kalapana  are  very  interesting, 
being  covered  by  the  newest  of  the  flows.  There  is  a  trail  over 
the  lava  from  Puako  to  Kiholo  which  is  often  traveled,  but  the 
two  latter  sections  are  never  crossed. 

Vegetation.  —  With  the  exception  of  the  section  between 
Hualalai  on  the  south  and  the  Kohala  Mountains  on  the  north, 
Hawaii  is  encircled  with  a  wide  forest  belt.  On  the  windward 
side  this  forest  belt  formerly  extended  to  the  cliffs  along  the 
coast.  The  finest  and  most  impenetrable  forests  of  the  group 
are  those  found  in  the  Hilo  and  Puna  districts. 

These  forests  do  not  differ  in  make-up  from  those  on  the 


66 


HAWAII 


other  islands,  except  that  there  are  groves  of  young  sandalwood 
trees  found  in  parts  of  Kona  and  Kau,  and  in  the  Olaa  jungles 
there  are  a  great  many  loulu  palms.    (These  latter  are  a  species 

of  fan  palm,  from  the 
undeveloped  leaves  of 
which  the  finest  Ha- 
waiian hats  are  made.) 

The  forest  belt  ex- 
tends as  high  as  6000 
and  7000  feet ;  above 
this  there  are  shrubs 
and  a  species  of  long 
grass  which  grow  up 
to  an  elevation  of 
1 1,000  feet ;  still  higher 
the  mountains  are  bare 
of  plant  life. 

The  North  Kohala 
section  of  the  island 
has  been  denuded  of 
forest  trees  by  fire  and 
cattle  to  such  a  degree 
that  the  watersheds 
have  been  affected, 
causing  springs  to  dry 
up  and  the  rainfall  to 
decrease. 

Industries.  —  Ha- 
waii has  twenty-three 
sugar  plantations,^  and  produces  one  third  of  the  whole  amount 
of  sugar  produced  in  the  group.  Most  of  the  sugar  comes  from 
the  windward  side  of  the  island,  where  cane  is  grown  with- 
out irrigation.  From  Olaa  to  Waipio  is  an  almost  continuous 
belt  of  sugar  cane,  broken  only  by  the  gulches. 

Nearly  all  of  the  coffee  grown  on  the  Hawaiian  Islands  comes 
from  the  Hamakua  and  Kona  districts. 


Forest  in  Olaa. 


1  See  Appendix  A  for  list  of  plantations. 


INDUSTRIES 


67 


Heiau  (Ancient  Temple j  at  Kawaihae. 


9 


Entrance  to  Heiau, 


68 


HAWAII 


The  Waipio,  Waimanu,  and  Pololu  valleys  are  the  only 
places  on  Hawaii  where  rice  is  raised.  This  rice  is  packed  to 
the  landing  on  the  backs  of  mules. 

The  areas  of  Hawaii  above  the  cane  fields  are  well  adapted 
to  the  growing  of  fruits  and  vegetables,  and  no  doubt  a  great 
many  such  would  be  raised  by  the  homesteaders  and  small 
farmers,  were  it  not  for  the  difficulty  and  expense  of  getting 
the  products  to  market. 

Dry-land  taro  is  chiefly  raised  on  Hawaii.  This  is  planted 
among  the  forest  trees,  requiring  only  to  be  weeded  a  few  times 
to  produce  a  good  crop. 

Cattle  raising  is  an  important  industry  on  Hawaii,  large 
tracts  in  various  parts  of  the  island  being  used  for  that  pur- 
pose. Most  of  these  rough,  lava-covered  regions  would  not 
be  fit  for  anything  else,  but  the  finest  of  cattle  are  raised  on 
them. 

In  parts  of  South  Kona  and  Puna  the  chief  industry  is  fish- 
ing, the  fish  being  dried  and  sent  to  the  Honolulu  market. 

Districts.  —  The  districts  of  Hawaii  are  North  Kohala,  South 
Kohala,  Hamakua,  North  Hilo,  South  Hilo,  Puna,  Kau,  North 
Kona,  and  South  Kona. 

South  Kohala.  —  South  Kohala  is  almost  entirely  within  one 
of  the  dry  regions,  hence  is  not  of  much  importance.  The  chief 
occupation  of  the  district  is  grazing,  the  largest  and  most  im- 
portant cattle  ranch  in  the  group,  the  Parker  Ranch,  being  lo- 
cated here  on  the  Waimea  plateau.  The  extensive  reaches  of 
grass  land  make  this  plain  an  ideal  ranching  spot. 

Sections  of  the  Waimea  plain  afford  excellent  agricultural 
lands,  but  owing  to  the  distance  from  a  market  and  the  lack  of 
shipping  facilities  to  the  port  of  Kawaihae,  it  does  not  pay  very 
well  to  farm  these  lands. 

Waimea  village,  located  on  the  plateau,  is  chiefly  important 
as  a  center  for  ranching  interests.  It  has  a  fine,  bracing 
climate. 

Kawaihae  is  the  port  for  South  Kohala,  being  also  the  mail 
and  passenger  landing  for  Hamakua.  It  is  an  important  cattle 
port.    The  wireless  station  for  Hawaii  is  located  here. 


KOHALA 


69 


On  a  hill  overlooking  the  bay  and  village  of  Kawaihae  is  the  heiau  of 
Puukohola,  built  by  Kamehameha  in  the  year  1791.  This  was  one  of  the 
largest  and  most  recent  of  the  heiaus  built.  It  is  very  well  preserved,  the 
inclosing  walls  being  almost  perfect.  The  heiau  was  built  as  a  favor  to  the 
gods  to  secure  to  Kamehameha  the  kingdom  of  Hawaii,  and  so  was  un- 
doubtedly the  incentive  which  led  the  impatient  conqueror  to  the  treacher- 
ous murder  of  the  brave  Keoua  as  he  leaped  ashore  on  the  sands  almost 
within  its  shadow. 


Statue  of  Kamehameha  in  Kohala. 


North  Kohala.  —  For  many  years  the  growing  crops  in  Kohala 
were  dependent  upon  the  rainfall  for  their  chief  water  supply, 
but  now  all  of  the  cane  fields  are  irrigated  with  water  supplied 
from  the  Kohala  Ditch.  This  aqueduct  extends  into  the  Kohala 
Mountains  to  a  point  not  far  from  the  head  of  the  great  Waipio 
Valley,  traversing  a  rugged,  inaccessible  region.  The  greater 
part  of  the  ditch  is  tunnels.  It  conveys  the  water  to  the  lands 
above  Honoipu,  adding  materially  to  the  cane  area  of  the  Kohala 
district.  The  water  from  this  ditch  is  leased  by  the  plantations, 
or  is  apportioned  according  to  the  share  each  holds  in  it. 

The  area  occupied  by  the  Kohala  plantations,  of  which  there 


70 


HAWAII 


are  six,  is  smaller  than  that  of  some  of  the  larger  sugar  estates 
of  Oahu.  Hawi  is  the  chief  plantation,  producting  two  fifths 
of  the  whole  crop  for  the  district. 

Mahukona  is  the  port  for  North  Kohala.  It  is  connected 
by  railroad  with  the  plantations.  Sugar  is  shipped  direct  to 
the  mainland  from  this  port. 

The  term  Kohala  is  usually  applied  to  that  part  of  the  district 
occupied  by  the  plantations.  The  chief  place  is  Kapaau,  which 
is  the  civic  and  business  center. 

On  the  grounds  of  the  Ainakea  School  not  far  from  Kapaau 
is  the  statue  of  Kamehameha  I,  of  which  that  in  Honolulu  is 
the  replica.    It  is  said  that  Kamehameha  was  born  on  this  spot. 

Centrally  located  in  this  district  is  the  Kohala  Seminary  for 
girls,  which  is  the  complement  to  the  Hilo  Boys'  Boarding 
School. 

Owing  to  the  fact  that  the  plantation  settlements  are  not  far 
apart,  Kohala  has  more  community  life  than  is  usually  found 
in  the  outer  districts. 

Hamakua.  —  Outside  of  the  Waipio  region  Hamakua  has  no 
running  streams,  or  even  springs.  This  is  due  to  the  abrupt 
slope  of  this  part  of  the  island,  which  allows  the  water  to  run 
off  readily,  and  to  the  fact  that  the  gulches  run  up  towards 
the  Waimea  plateau,  thus  having  no  good  watershed  back  of 
them. 

While  the  rainfall  in  this  district  as  a  rule  is  abundant,  at  times 
there  are  severe  droughts  when  water  is  very  scarce.  To  over- 
come this  difficulty  two  ditches  were  constructed  which  bring 
the  Waipio  water  upon  the  Hamakua  lands.  The  plantations 
nearest  the  gulch  use  this  water  for  irrigating  and  fluming  their 
cane,  and  a  portion  is  used  for  establishing  waterworks  for  the 
different  villages.  Unfortunately  these  ditches  run  dry  at  times 
as  they  tap  the  streams  in  the  mountain  area  above  Waipio 
Valley,  which  is  also  affected  by  the  drought. 

Owning  to  the  abrupt  slope  and  the  lack  of  water  for  fluming 
purposes,  the  plantations  of  Hamakua  have  had  great  difficulty 
in  finding  means  for  transporting  their  cane  to  the  mills.  At 
Paauilo  a  permanent  railroad  track  has  been  built  which  by 


HAMAKUA 


71 


many  turnings  reaches  the  higher  fields.  At  Kukaiau  a  com- 
plete system  of  trolley  cables  has  been  installed.  The  cane  is 
tied  up  in  bundles  and  sent  directly  to  the  mill,  or  to  an  assembly 
station  on  the  plantation  railroad.  In  other  cases  the  cane  is 
sent  down  on  gravity  roads,  or  in  flumes  to  stations  on  tracks 
which  extend  out  on  each  side  of  the  mill. 

The  Kukaiau  Plantation  has  merged  its  interests  with  the  Hamakua 
Mill  Company.  The  cane  is  ground  by  the  mill  of  the  latter  at  Paauilo. 
The  cane  of  the  Pacific  Sugar  Mill  Company  (Kukuihaele)  is  ground  at  the 
Honokaa  Mill. 

The  Hamakua  Mill  sends  its  sugar  by  railroad  to  Hilo  for  transship- 
ment. The  other  plantations  maintain  their  own  landings.  The  sugar 
is  swung  out  to  the  boat  or  vessel  by  means  of  a  derrick  operated  by  a 
donkey  engine.  At  the  best  these  are  hazardous  landings,  while  in  rough 
weather  they  cannot  be  used  at  all. 

Hamakua  next  to  Kona  is  the  chief  coffee  section  of  the  group.  The 
finest  and  largest  coffee  estate  in  the  islands  is  located  in  this  district  at 
Kalopa,  above  Paauhau  —  that  of  Louisson  Brothers.  Some  splendid 
coffee  fields  are  to  be  found  on  this  estate,  due  to  the  care  and  cultivation 
the  trees  receive.  There  is  a  model  mill  here  which  prepares  and  grades 
the  coffee  beans  for  market. 

The  areas  in  this  district  above  the  plantation  cane  fields  are  excellent 
farm  lands,  but  owing  to  the  distance  from  market  and  the  cost  of  trans- 
portation to  the  landing,  only  a  small  portion  is  used  for  general  farming 
purposes.  There  are  important  homestead  tracts  in  this  section  where  the 
main  crop  is  sugar  cane. 

The  Hamakua  settlements  are  divided  between  the  govern- 
ment road,  which  is  a  mile  or  more  from  the  sea,  and  the  mills 
that  are  located  near  the  bluffs  along  the  shore. 

Honokaa,  the  civic  center,  has  long  been  the  main  settlement 
in  this  district  owing  to  its  central  location. 

Paauilo,  which  is  the  terminus  for  the  railroad,  is  gradually 
displacing  Honokaa  as  the  principal  place  in  Hamakua.  The 
railroad  terminus  is  at  the  mill,  a  mile  below  the  main  planta- 
tion camp  on  the  government  road. 

The  largest  place  in  Hamakua  is  Honokaa.  Paauhau,  Paauilo, 
Waipio,  and  Kukuihaele  are  important  places  as  well. 

Waipio  is  connected  with  Kukuihaele  by  a  steep  trail  up  the 
east  side  of  the  valley.    A  road  was  once  built  around  the  sea 


72 


HAWAII 


cliffs  from  Kukuihaele  to  Waipio,  but  large  sections  of  this  road 
were  destroyed  by  landslides,  making  it  impassable. 

In  ancient  times  Waipio  was  one  of  the  chief  places  of  Hawaii, 
having  a  large  population.  It  was  here  that  Kamehameha 
landed  after  the  sea  fight  off  Waimanu  to  bury  his  dead,  marching 
the  next  day  to  Waimea,  up  historic    Mud  Lane." 


HoNOKAA  Landing,  Hamakua. 


North  Hilo  and  South  Hilo.  —  In  contrast  to  Hamakua,  these 
districts  have  many  deep  gulches,  each  of  which  has  a  large,  ever- 
running  stream.  However,  with  the  exception  of  the  gorge  of  the 
Wailuku,  which  probably  began  in  a  lava  tunnel,  these  gulches, 
though  they  are  large  near  the  sea,  do  not  extend  far  inland. 

These  districts  are  among  the  most  pleasant  places  of  the 
group,  being  always  green  and  free  from  high  winds  or  dust. 
At  night  there  is  a  gentle  land  breeze  from  Mauna  Kea,  and 
during  the  day  the  air  is  kept  cool  by  the  sea  breeze. 

As  water  is  abundant  in  these  districts,  it  is  used  almost 
entirely  for  transporting  the  cane  from  the  fields  to  the  mill. 
The  highest  and  longest  flumes  on  the  islands  are  found  here. 
Portable  flumes  are  used  for  getting  the  cane  to  the  main  flumes, 
which  carry  it  to  the  mill. 

As  in  the  Hamakua  district,  most  of  the  plantations  have  their 
own  landings,  except  that  in  this  case  the  sugar  is  conveyed  to 


NORTH  HILO  AND  SOUTH  HILO 


73 


the  steamer  by  a  trolley  traveling  on  a  cable  extending  from 
the  cliff  over  her  deck.^ 

The  chief  places  of  these  districts,  named  in  order  from  north 
to  south,  are  Laupahoehoe,  Papaaloa,  Honomu,  Onomea,  Pa- 
paikou,  and  Hilo  Town.  (Waiakea  and  Wainaku  are  suburbs 
of  Hilo.) 


The  town  of  Hilo  is  superbly  situated,  the  view  from  the  bay 
with  the  peaks  of  Mauna  Loa  and  snow-capped  Mauna  Kea  in 
the  distance  making  a  scene  of  rare  beauty. 

Hilo  owes  its  importance  to  the  fact  that  it  has  the  only  good 
harbor  on  the  east  side  of  Hawaii,  and  that  it  is  the  landing  for 
the  volcano  of  Kilauea.  It  has  a  population  of  about  10,500, 
and  is  the  county  seat  for  the  island  of  Hawaii. 

The  harbor  is  partially  protected  by  a  submerged  reef  which 
extends  out  into  the  bay  from  the  east  shore.    A  breakwater 

^  With  one  exception  the  plantations  along  the  north  Hilo  coast  still  ship  their 
sugar  from  such  landings  as  are  shown  on  page  74.  However,  they  use  the  railroad 
for  some  of  their  supplies,  which  come  from  Hilo. 


Cane  Flume,  Hilo. 


GEOG.  H.  I.  RE.V.  — 4 


74 


HAWAII 


has  been  built  for  over  a  mile  along  this  reef.  When  the  pro- 
jected extension  of  this  breakwater  is  completed,  Hilo  will  have 
a  splendid  deep-water  harbor.  Within  the  shelter  of  the  break- 
water a  long  landing  wharf  has  been  built  which  is  connected 
with  the  town  two  and  one  half  miles  away  by  railroad  and  a 
good  driveway. 


Plantation  Landing. 


Hilo  is  the  distributing  center  for  the  Puna,  Hilo,  and  Hamakua 
districts.  A  railroad  (Hawaii  Consolidated  Railroad)  runs  as 
far  as  Paauilo  in  Hamakua  on  the  one  side,  and  to  Glenwood, 
nine  miles  from  the  volcano  of  Kilauea,  on  the  other,  with  a 
branch  road  to  Kapoho.  This  railway  is  of  standard  gauge 
with  modern  equipment.  The  Hamakua  extension  of  this 
railroad,  which  crosses  over  200  streams,  is  a  remarkable  feat 
of  engineering.  While  this  section  of  the  road  was  built  for 
commercial  purposes,  nowhere  is  there  a  finer  stretch  of  scenic 
railway.  Hilo  is  connected  with  Honolulu  by  regular  steamer 
service,  and  also  with  San  Francisco  and  other  Pacific  ports. 


HILO 


75 


Hilo's  abundant  water  supply  is  used  to  develop  electricity,  which  is 
furnished  at  a  low  cost.  An  electric  street  railway  is  projected  for  the  town. 
Hilo  has  the  first  Federal  building  erected  in  the  Pacific.  There  are  a  public 
library  and  some  good  mercantile  buildings.  The  town  is  well  supplied 
with  schools ;  besides  large  Catholic  schools  for  boys  and  girls,  there  is  a 
high  school  and  a  well-equipped  grammar  school.  Also  located  here  is  the 
Hilo  Boys'  Boarding  School,  from  which  General  Armstrong  patterned  the 
famous  Hampton  Institute  of  Virginia. 

The  Wailuku  River  flows  through  the  town,  being  spanned  by  some  fine 
bridges. 


Sugar  Mill  in  Hilo  District  (Wainaku). 


Points  of  special  interest  near  Hilo  are  Coconut  Island,  the  bathing 
resort  of  the  city ;  Rainbow  Falls,  Onomea  Gulch  and  x\rch,  the  pretty 
Akaka  Fall  at  Honomu,  and  the  Kaumana  Caves  (lava  channels  of  the  1881 
flow)  ;  but  the  whole  section  about  the  town,  with  its  enveloping  woods 
and  waterfall-studded  gulches,  abounds  in  spots  of  scenic  beauty. 

The  Onomea  Sugar  Company's  mill  is  at  Papaikou,  which 
is  the  most  important  place  in  North  Hilo  north  of  the  town  of 
Hilo. 

Laupahoehoe  village,  which  is  built  on  a  tongue  of  lava  jutting 
out  from  the  mouth  of  the  gulch,  is  the  halfway  house  between 
Hilo  and  Hamakua.    The  landing,  which  has  long  been  an  im- 


76 


HAWAII 


portant  one  on  this  coast,  is  no  longer  used  by  the  regular  mail 
and  passenger  boats. 

Honomu,  Hakalau,  and  Pepeekeo  are  large  plantation,  settle- 
ments, the  two  former  being  on  the  main  road,  while  the  latter 

is  near  the  mill  a  short 
distance  below  the  road. 
The  Laupahoehoe  Mill 
is  located  at  Papaaloa 
on  the  bluff  two  miles 
from  the  village. 

Puna.  —  There  is  a 
tradition  which  says 
that  at  one  time  Puna 
was  one  of  the  most 
fertile  districts  of  Ha- 
waii, but  while  the 
chief  of  the  district  was 
in  Hilo,  Pele  paid  him  a 
visit,  pouring  over  his 
possessions  a  terrible 
flood  of  lava.  How- 
ever, the  rainfall  is  so 
great  in  parts  of  the 
district  that  this  lava 
Akaka  Fall,  500  Feet  High.  has  been  rapidly  decom- 

posed, and  the  heaviest 
of  forests  are  to  be  found,  as  in  Olaa  and  the  region  about  Pahoa. 

A  large  part  of  the  soil  of  upper  Olaa  is  ash  which  probably 
came  from  Kilauea ;  the  great  fertihty  of  this  soil  is  due  to  the 
decayed  vegetable  matter  which  has  been  added  to  it. 

There  are  no  streams  or  springs  in  Puna,  the  only  dependence 
for  water  being  tanks. 

Olaa.  —  The  lower  part  of  the  Olaa  section  of  Puna  is  occupied 
with  the  cane  fields  of  the  Olaa  Sugar  Company ;  above  this 
there  are  a  number  of  homesteads  where  the  farmers  raise  for 
market  dairy  products,  hogs,  poultry,  berries,  and  some  garden 
truck.    This  latter  area  has  a  splendid  forest  growth,  and  in 


HILO  77 


Onomea  Arch. 


Cuff  at  Laupahoehoe. 


78 


HAWAII 


common  with  the  rest  of  Olaa  has  a  very  heavy  rainfall.  It  is  a 
fine  agricultural  region  where  many  tropical  fruits  and  plants 
grow  well,  and  no  doubt  in  time  will  develop  into  an  important 
farming  district.  Glenwood,  the  terminus  for  the  railroad,  is  the 
shipping  center  for  this  section.  Not  far  from  the  crater  of  Ki- 
lauea,  near  the  road  leading  to  it,  are  a  number  of  summer  homes. 

The  Olaa  Plantation,  which  is  the  largest  sugar  estate  on  this 
island,  occupies  nearly  all  of  the  available  cane  land  of  the  Puna 
district,  including  the  Pahoa  and  Kapoho  tracts.  The  Hawaii 
Railroad  winds  through  the  Olaa  fields  on  its  way  to  the  volcano 
station  at  Glenwood.  The  plantation  makes  use  of  this  road 
for  transporting  its  cane  to  the  mill. 

Keaau,  sometimes  referred  to  as  Nine  Miles  and  Olaa,  is  the 
chief  place  in  Puna.  The  Olaa  Mill  is  located  near  this  place. 
Mountain  View,  Pahoa,  and  Kapoho  are  largely  plantation 
camps.  Kalapana  is  an  isolated  fishing  village  of  South  Puna. 
This  section  is  but  thinly  settled,  and  too  rocky  to  ever  be  of 
much  use. 

A  long  section  of  the  Puna  coast,  thirty  or  forty  miles,  shows 
evidences  of  having  sunk.  Coconut  trees  are  found  below  the 
tide  level,  or  their  dead  stumps  stand  out  in  the  sea. 

At  Kapoho  there  is  a  warm  spring,  which  is  a  pool  about  sixty  feet  in 
length  and  thirty  feet  wide,  with  a  depth  of  twenty-five  feet,  filling  a  cleft 
in  the  lava  rock.  The  water  is  remarkably  transparent  and  buoyant,  and 
is  of  blood  heat. 

Other  interesting  features  of  Puna  are :  the  lava  tree  casts  found  in  the 
forest  above  Kapoho ;  Green  Lake,  a  pretty  pond  of  water  in  a  volcanic 
cone  at  Kapoho ;  the  bowlders  strewn  along  the  coast  near  Pohoiki  by  the 
great  1868  tidal  wave  ;  and  the  heiau  of  Wahaula  in  farthest  Puna.  (A  fac- 
simile in  miniature  of  this  heiau  as  it  would  appear  if  restored  is  to  be  seen 
in  the  Bishop  Museum.) 

Kau.  —  Near  the  sea  in  Kau  there  is  a  low  belt  several  miles 
in  width  which  is*  hot  and  dry,  but  above  this  the  land  rises 
abruptly,  and  has  a  good  rainfall.  Upon  this  highland  cane 
is  planted,  and  grows  well  without  irrigation.  The  section 
cultivated  with  sugar  cane  is  the  older  portion  of  the  district ; 
being  higher  it  was  not  covered  with  lava. 


Green  Lake,  Puna. 


8o 


HAWAII 


With  the  exception  of  a  few  small  gulches,  Kau  is  without 
valleys  and  streams  —  the  so-called  Wood  Valley  is  nothing 
more  than  a  depression  in  the  mountain  side  made  by  just  such 
a  catastrophe  as  that  which  caused  the  Mud  Flow.  Mountain 
springs  have  been  developed  and  storage  reservoirs  built  so  that 
the  plantations  have  sufficient  water  to  irrigate  some  of  their 
lower  fields  and  flume  nearly  all  the  cane  to  the  mill. 

There  are  two  plantations  in  Kau :  the  Pahala,  or  Hawaiian 
Agricultural  Company,  and  Naalehu  and  Hilea,  which  comprise 
the  Hutchinson  Sugar  Company.  Pahala  is  one  of  the  largest  and 
best  plantations  on  Hawaii.  Cane  is  planted  higher  here  than 
in  any  other  part  of  the  group.  The  Hilea  Mill  is  at  Honuapo. 
Each  plantation  has  a  railroad  to  the  landing  —  Pahala  shipping 
its  sugar  at  Punaluu,  and  Naalehu  and  Hilea  at  Honuapo. 
Honuapo  is  the  chief  landing  of  Kau.  It  is  the  passenger  land- 
ing for  the  volcano  of  Kilauea  when  the  trip  is  made  by  way  of 
West  Hawaii. 

Kapapala  and  Kahuku  are  cattle  ranches.  They  occupy 
chiefly  the  lava  regions  of  Kau.  The  1868  and  1887  flows  cov- 
ered the  best  of  the  Kahuku  pastures. 

Besides  the  landings  and  plantation  settlements,  the  only 
other  place  of  importance  in  Kau  is  Waiohinu.  (The  landings 
at  Kaalualu  and  Keauhou  have  long  since  been  abandoned.) 
Waiohinu  was  a  flourishing  place  at  one  time,  being  the  chief 
market  for  barter  and  trade  of  a  large  farming  population  occu- 
pying the  land  between  the  village  and  Kahuku.  But  these 
people  have  gone  elsewhere,  and  the  town  has  lost  its  prestige. 

In  olden  times  Kau  had  a  large  native  population.  These  people  culti- 
vated upland  patches,  but  lived  chiefly  near  the  sea.  Their  favorite  place 
seems  to  have  been  the  lava  region  from  Honuapo  to  Punaluu.  Near 
Punaluu  a  large  underground  stream  runs  into  the  sea,  and  at  other  points 
along  the  coast  there  are  springs,  which  accounts  for  the  selection  of  this 
dreary  spot  for  a  home  by  these  people. 

North  Kona  and  South  Kona.  —  The  entire  surface  of  these 
districts  is  composed  of  partly  decomposed  lava  flows.    There  ^ 
are  very  few  level  patches,  and  no  place  where  a  baseball  ground 
or  a  polo  field  could  be  laid  out. 


NORTH  KONA  AND  SOUTH  KONA 


8i 


There  are  no  gulches  or  streams,  and  but  very  few  springs. 
Small  freshets  cross  the  road  in  a  few  places  in  North  Kona  at 
times  when  it  rains  heavily,  but  are  lost  in  the  rocks  before  they 
reach  the  sea.  There  is  only  one  such  place  in  South  Kona. 
where,  during  a  storm,  the  water  may  be  heard  roaring  above, 
though  it  scarcely  ever  crosses  the  road. 


HoNUAPO  Landing. 


There  is  a  warm,  dry  belt  near  the  sea  throughout  these  dis- 
tricts, but  above  this  the  land  rises  abruptly  into  a  cool  and  brac- 
ing climate,  where  rain  is  plentiful. 

Road  building  is  difficult  and  expensive  in  Kona,  owing  to  the 
abrupt  slope  and  rocky  nature  of  the  surface ;  hence  there  is 
but  one  main  road  which  extends  the  entire  length  of  these  dis- 
tricts. This  road  is  from  one  to  four  miles  above  the  shore. 
Branch  roads  extend  to  all  of  the  landings,  but  all  other  places 
must  be  reached  by  trails.  Donkeys  are  used  entirely  for  trans- 
portation over  these  trails.  A  great  many  of  these  useful  ani- 
mals are  found  in  Kona. 


82 


HAWAII 


These  districts  comprise  one  of  the  finest  agricultural  sections 
in  the  group ;  everything  grows  well,  even  though  seemingly 
planted  right  among  the  rocks.  However,  many  things  cannot 
be  cultivated  with  profit,  owing  to  the  distance  from  any  market 
and  the  expense  of  transporting  produce  to  the  landings. 

The  chief  industry  of  Kona  is  coffee  —  everywhere  there  are 
coffee  fields.  Most  of  these  fields  are  cared  for  by  Japanese. 
There  are  several  good  coffee  mills  in  both  districts,  where  the 
coffee  is  prepared  in  the  best  way  for  market. 

Tobacco  growing  is  an  important  industry  in  South  Kona. 
There  are  extensive  curing  sheds  here  where  the  leaf  is  prepared 
for  market.  However,  this  industry  may  be  abandoned  for  the 
reason  that  the  tobacco  raised  here  is  not  of  the  best  quality. 

Cane  planting  is  not  carried  on  so  extensively  here  as  it  is  in 
the  other  districts,  because  cultivation  and  transportation  are 
difficult,  owing  to  the  rocky  nature  of  the  ground,  the  abrupt 
slope,  and  the  lack  of  running  water. 

On  the  upper  slopes  of  Hualalai  and  Mauna  Loa,  which 
afford  fine  grazing  land,  there  are  a  number  of  cattle  ranches. 
Owing  to  the  rocky  nature  of  this  region,  cattle  driving  is  diffi- 
cult and  hazardous. 

Kailua  is  the  civic  center  for  both  districts,  and  the  chief 
port  in  North  Kona.  There  are  two  coffee  mills  here  where  the 
beans  are  prepared  and  graded  for  market.  A  great  deal  of 
coffee  is  shipped  from  this  port.  Kailua's  most  striking  feature 
is  its  great  stone  church  built  in  the  year  1835,  when  there  was 
a  large  native  population  in  this  region. 

Holualoa  is  an  inland  village  at  the  junction  of  the  main  road 
with  that  leading  to  the  sea  beach  and  the  Kailua  landing.  The 
large  school  here  indicates  it  to  be  one  of  the  chief  population 
centers  of  Kona. 

Konawaena,  which  is  situated  on  the  boundary  line  between 
the  two  districts,  is  the  community  center  for  this  part  of  Hawaii. 
There  is  a  community  house  here,  two  branch  banks,  a  central 
church,  and  a  large  school. 

Napoopoo,  famous  as  the  landing  place  of  Captain  Cook,  is 
located  on  the  eastern  side  of  Kealakekua  Bay  opposite  the 


NORTH  KONA  AND  SOUTH  KONA 


8,3 


Loading  Cattle  at  Kailua. 


84 


HAWAII 


spot  where  the  Great  Circumnavigator's  monument  stands, 
which  is  in  plain  view  from  the  village.  Napoopoo  is  the  chief 
landing  for  South  Kona.  Like  Kailua  it  is  an  important  coffee 
port. 

Kealakekua  is  a  small  inland  village  on  the  main  road  north 
of  the  bay. 


Old  Palace,  Kailua. 


Hoonaunau  is  now  two  miles  inland,  there  being  but  a  few 
huts  which  guard  the  historic  spot  where  the  ancient  village 
stood  by  the  sea. 

The  ruins  of  the  ancient  temple  and  city  of  refuge  at  Ho- 
onaunau, which  have  been  partially  restored,  are  kept  in  a  state 
of  preservation. 

Hookena  is  only  of  importance  as  the  landing  for  the  interior 
country. 

Many  of  the  places  in  Kona  are  so  much  scattered  along  the 
upper  road,  or  divided  between  that  road  and  the  seashore,  that 
it  is  a  Httle  difficult  to  name  them. 


Cook's  Monument,  on  Kealakekua  Bay. 


86 


HAWAII 


In  ancient  times  Kona  was  one  of  the  favorite  places  of  the  natives,  and 
had  a  large  population.  These  people  lived  chiefly  along  the  seashore, 
where  it  was  warm  and  dry,  and  where  the  placid  waters  afforded  the  best 
of  fishing.  Trips  were  made  inland  to  the  forests,  where  dry-land  taro  was 
planted. 

Kona  abounds  in  places  and  objects  of  historic  interest  as :  the  famous 
City  of  Refuge  at  Honaunau ;  Kaawaloa  (on  Kealakekua  Bay),  where 
Cook  was  killed ;  the  great  stone  toboggan  shde  just  above  Keauhou  ;  the 
Judd  road,  extending  from  the  shore  between  Kailua  and  Keauhou  in  a 
direct  line  fifteen  miles  towards  Hilo ;  the  stone  wall  built  to  exclude  the 
pigs  from  the  agricultural  land  above,  and  running  through  the  entire 
district. 

An  obelisk  has  been  erected  at  Kaawaloa  to  the  memory  of  Captain 
Cook,  bearing  the  following  inscription :  — 

IN  MEMORY  OF 

THE  GREAT  CIRCUMNAVIGATOR 

CAPTAIN  JAMES  COOK,  R.N. 

WHO 

DISCOVERED  THESE  ISLANDS 

ON  THE  i8th  of  January,  a.d.  1778 
AND  FELL  NEAR  THIS  SPOT 
ON  THE  14TH  OF  February,  a.d.  1779 


THIS  MONUMENT  WAS  ERECTED 
IN  November,  a.d.  1874 

BY  SOME  OF 

HIS  FELLOW  COUNTRYMEN 

Though  Cook  was  killed  at  Kaawaloa,  it  was  at  Napoopoo  that  he  landed 
and  did  his  bartering  with  the  natives. 

The  City  of  Refuge  occupies  six  or  seven  acres  of  a  low,  rocky  (pahoehoe) 
point  on  the  south  side  of  the  little  bay  of  Honaunau.  The  inclosing  walls 
on  the  south  and  east  sides  are  still  standing,  but  the  others  have  been 
destroyed  by  tidal  waves.  The  walls  are  about  twelve  feet  in  height  and 
eighteen  feet  in  width.  The  Hale-o-Keawe  stood  upon  the  platform  of 
rock  at  the  northeast  corner  facing  the  bay.  Below  this  there  is  a  larger 
platform,  which  marks  the  site  of  the  lower  temple.  On  either  side  of  this 
latter  platform  there  are  two  huge  altar  stones,  called  Keoua's  and  Kaahu- 
manu's  stones. 


MAUI 


Physical  Features.  —  The  Maui  group,  including  Maui,  Molo- 
kai,  Lanai,  and  Kahoolawe,  is  midway  between  Hawaii  and 
Oahu,  Maui  itself  being  nearest  to  Hawaii. 

While  Maui  is  second  in  size  of  the  Hawaiian  Islands,  con- 
taining 728  square  miles,  it  is  only  about  one  fifth  the  size  of 
the  island  of  Hawaii. 
(Maui  is  a  double  island,  with  the  smaller  lobe  lying  towards 
the  north wes^  It  has  no  distinct  promontories  or  capes. 
Kauiki  Head  is  the  rim  of  a  crater  which  incloses  on  one  side 
Hana  Bay.  The  so-called  Kahakuloa  Point  is  but  one  of  a 
succession  of  points,  being  prominent  because  of  its  peculiar 
formation  rather  than  because  of  its  size. 

^Maui  is  made  up  of  two  distinct  mountain  masses  joined  by 
a  low,  flat  isthmuj.  Haleakala  occupies  the  whole  of  the  eastern 
section,  comprising  the  larger  part  of  the  island,  while  the  West 
Maui  Mountains  fill  the  smaller  or  western  section  of  the  island. 

On  the  north  and  south  sides  of  the  isthmus  are  the  bays  of 
Kahului  and  Maalaea  respectively.  On  the  north  side  the  coral 
has  built  out  from  the  mainland  on  both  sides,  forming  the 
Kahului  Harbor.  Through  the  opening  in  the  reef  there  is  a 
deep  channel  which  the  largest  vessels  can  enter. 

Along  the  northeast  coasts  of  both  Mauis  there  are  cliffs,  but 
they  are  not  of  great  height. 

Off  the  Lahaina  side  of  West  Maui  there  are  extensive  coral 
reefs  and  a  sand  beach  extending  many  miles  along  the  shore. 
Much  coral  is  also  found  about  East  Maui,  where  the  conditions 
are  favorable  for  its  growth,  but,  as  this  part  of  the  island  is 
much  newer  than  the  other,  the  reefs  are  not  so  extensive. 

West  Maui  Mountains.  —  The  West  Maui  section  is  much 
older  than  Haleakala,  being  possibly  as  old  as  the  island  of  Kauai, 
the  Waianae  range  of  Oahu,  or  the  Kohala  Mountains  of  Hawaii. 

87 


go 


MAUI 


(As  these  mountains  are  stretched  directly  across  the  track  of 
the  trade  winds,  they  have  been  subject  to  a  very  heavy  rainfall, 
and  have  been  tremendously  cut  up,  furnishing  as  fine  an  ex- 
ample of  erosion  as  can  be  found  anywhere.)  So  great  has  the 
cutting  been  that  it  is  difficult  for  us  to  imagine  that  the  great 
gulches  we  find  here,  such  as  lao,  Waihee,  Olowalu,  and  Hono- 
kahau,  are  purely  the  result  of  erosion.  However,  we  have  ex- 
amples on  a  smaller  scale  with  just  such  results  as  we  find  here ; 
so  undoubtedly  the  great  amphitheaters  at  the  head  of  these 
valleys  are  areas  of  erosion,  and  not  old  craters,  as  we  might 
suppose  them  to  be  at  first  sight. 

The  highest  peak  of  West  Maui  is  Puu  Kukui,  5788  feet 
high. 

The  scenery  in  the  lao  Valley,  which  is  the  most  accessible  of  the  West 
Maui  gulches,  has  been  described  as  being  almost  equal  to  that  of  Yosemite, 
but  that  of  Waihee  and  Olowalu  is  fully  as  fine.  The  view  from  the  top 
of  Puu  Kukui,  looking  almost  perpendicularly  down  into  the  wonderful 
gorges  of  lao  and  Waihee  and  out  over  East  Maui  and  the  top  of  Haleakala 
to  the  snow-capped  mountains  of  Hawaii,  is  said  to  be  one  of  the  finest  in 
the  world. 

Owing  to  the  narrowness  of  the  ridges  and  the  dense  vegetation  which 
covers  them,  these  mountains  can  be  scaled  in  only  a  few  places.  There 
was  once  a  way  from  Lahaina  to  Wailuku  over  the  dividing  ridge  between 
the  Olowalu  and  lao  valleys,  known  as  the  Olowalu  Pass,  but  this  road  is 
now  impassable,  owing  to  landslips. 

On  a  narrow  ridge  between  the  Waihee  and  Honokahau  val- 
leys is  the  crater  of  Eke.  The  peculiar  position  of  this  crater, 
which  is  a  small  one,  is  due  entirely  to  erosion. 

Near  the  summit  of  Puu  Kukui  there  is  an  extensive  bog  or 
marsh,  which  is  the  source  of  all  the  streams  on  the  Lahaina 
side  of  the  mountain.  'Though  this  side  of  the  mountain  is 
exceedingly  dry,  having  rain  only  during  the  Kona  storms,  it  is 
abundantly  supplied  with  water  from  the  fine  watershed  afforded 
by  the  mountains  back  of  it. 

Owing  to  the  heavy  rainfall,  the  upper  slopes  of  West  Maui 
are  covered  with  a  dense  growth  of  vegetation,  but  lower  down 
they  are  entirely  bare. 


MOUNTAINS 


91 


There  is  a  narrow  coastal  plain  on  the  sheltered  side  of  West 
Maui  formed  by  wash  from  the  mountain  ;  line  crops  of  cane  are 
grown  on  this  land. 

Haleakala  and  East  Maui.^  —  Haleakala  Mountain,  which  rises 
to  a  height  of  10,032  feet  above  sea  level,  contains  the  greatest 
of  the  world's  extinct  volcanoes  —  the  crater  of  Haleakala. 
The  greatest  length  of  the  crater  is  seven  and  one  half  miles, 
and  its  width  two  and  one  third  miles,  its  circumference  being 
twenty  miles.  Owing  to  the  shape  and  nature  of  the  crater,  it 
is  difficult  to  give  any  true  conception  of  its  size  by  stating  that 
it  is  so  long  and  so  wide,  and  so  many  miles  in  circumference. 
We  might  give  a  better  idea  of  its  size  by  stating  that  it  is  2000 
feet  deep,  that  one  of  the  cones  in  the  crater  is  over  700  feet 
high,  and  that  in  its  bottom  there  is  room  enough  for  one  of  the 
great  American  cities.  Haleakala  crater  is  an  area  of  the 
Hawaii  National  Park. 

Haleakala  is  unique  among  our  island  mountains  in  that  it  retains  in- 
tact the  great  crater  v/hich  formed  the  mountain.  In  every  other  case 
(Mauna  Loa  has  its  crater,  but  this  mountain  is  still  in  process  of  formation) 
the  central  crater  has  been  filled  up  and  so  completely  obliterated  that  not 
the  slightest  trace  of  it  can  be  found.  But  in  this  case  the  crater  is  entire, 
excepting  two  great  openings  or  gaps,  one  on  either  side,  through  which 
the  lava  flowed  to  the  sea.  This  can  be  explained  by  a  great  fauh  which 
caused  the  eastern  section  of  the  island  to  slip  away  and  down,  thus  forming 
the  crater  and  the  Koolau  and  Kaupo  gaps.  Instead  of  filling  up  the  crater, 
as  it  would  otherwise  have  done,  the  lava  now  flowed  through  these  gaps 
to  the  sea. 

With  its  cones  and  sand-covered  bottom,  the  crater  of  Hale- 
akala resembles  the  top  of  Mauna  Kea  in  general  appearance. 
With  the  exception  of  two  typical  aa  flows,  which  came  from 
a  fissure  high  up  on  the  eastern  wall,  flowing  some  distance 
along  the  bottom,  and  an  old  pahoehoe  flow  in  the  extreme 
eastern  end,  the  lava  floor  of  the  crater  is  thickly  covered  with 
sand,  being  exposed  only  where  this  sand  has  been  washed 
away  by  the  weather. 

^  "Haleakala,"  Charles  W.  Baldwin,  Hawaii's  Young  People,  April,  1898  (1899 
on  outside  cover). 


93 


94 


MAUI 


The  crater  is  nearly  bare  of  vegetation,  showing  here  and 
there  but  a  few  bushes  and  scattering  silver-swords,  except  on 
the  eastern  side,  where  there  is  a  good  growth  of  scrub  ohia, 
mamane,  etc.,  while  in  the  extreme  eastern  corner  there  is  a 
grove  of  forest  trees  and  abundant  fodder  for  animals ;  in  the 
brook  beds  on  the  sides  water  can  be  found. 

The  gaps  are  wide  where  they  open  out  from  the  crater,  the 
cHffs  on  either  side  towering  to  a  great  height.    The  fissure 


Haleakala  Crater,  looking  East. 


which  formed  these  gaps  extended  to  the  sea,  making  the 
Keanae  Valley  on  one  side.  The  Kaupo  gap  descends  abruptly 
to  the  sea,  while  that  on  the  Koolau  side  has  a  gradual  incline 
for  most  of  the  distance.  There  is  a  trail  through  the  Kaupo 
gap  which  is  used  by  cattlemen. 

Next  to  the  gaps  the  most  striking  feature  of  Haleakala  is  its  sand  cones. 
There  are  thirteen  cones  in  the  crater,  seven  of  which  are  sand  cones,  one  of 
them  being  over  700  feet  high.  These  cones,  which  are  placed  over  vents 
in  the  lava  of  the  crater,  contain  craters  from  which  was  erupted  the  sand 
of  which  they  are  formed  and  which  so  thickly  covers  the  bottom. 


MOUNTAINS 


95 


Growing  in  the  sand  of  the  cones,  or  from  crevices  in  the  floor  of  the  crater, 
are  numbers  of  silver-swords  ( Argyroxiphium) .  These  curious  and  in- 
teresting plants  are  not  found  anywhere  else  in  the  world. 

Other  interesting  features  of  the  crater  are :  the  Bottomless  Pit  (a 
blowhole)  ;  Pele's  Pigpen  (a  small,  partly  filled  crater)  ;  Hunter's  Cave ; 
Crystal  Cave  and  the  Chimneys ;  and  the  Natural  Bridge  —  the  four 
last-named  are  craters  along  a  rent  which  marked  one  of  the  eruptions  within 
the  crater. 

Judging  from  the  lava  flows  found  in  its  bottom,  the  crater  of  Haleakala 
may  have  been  active  two  or  three  hundred  years  ago. 


"  Bottomless  Pit,"  Haleakala  Crater. 


A  well-marked  trail  leads  from  Makawao  to  the  summit  of  the  crater, 
where  there  is  a  rest  house.  The  trail  into  the  crater,  with  the  exception 
of  three  miles  along  the  brink,  is  a  good  one. 

The  side  of  Haleakala  exposed  to  the  wind  is  cut  up  into  a 
countless  number  of  gulches.  These  gulches  are  large  near  the 
seacoast,  but  do  not  extend  far  up  on  the  mountain  side.  The 
Keanae  Valley  is  the  extension  of  the  Koolau  gap.  The  Kipa- 
hulu  Valley,  which  is  separated  from  the  crater  by  a  narrow 
precipitous  ridge,  was  caused  by  that  portion  of  the  land  be- 


96 


MAUI 


oii.\ wkd  in  Bloom,  ii.^u  ai^ala  Crailr. 


Sand  Cone  in  Haleakala  Crater. 


THE  ISTHMUS 


97 


tween  the  Kaupo  gap  and  the  valley  splitting  away  from  the 
main  body  and  not  sliding  as  far,  when  the  fault  occurred  which 
formed  the  crater. 

On  the  wedge-shaped  piece  on  the  northeastern  side  of  the 
crater  is  Lake  Waianapanapa,  directly  above  the  head  of  the 
Kipahulu  Valley. 

The  southeastern  slope  of  Haleakala  is  barren,  a  portion  of 
it  being  covered  with  lava  flows ;  some  of  these  flows  are  quite 
recent  —  being  perhaps  one  hundred  and  fifty  years  old. 

The  northwestern  slope  of  the  mountain,  being  protected 
from  the  wind,  presents  an  almost  unbroken  stretch  to  the 
isthmus.  ^ 

The  Isthmus.  — (The  isthmus  which  joins  East  and  West  Maui 
is  eight  miles  wide  at  its  narrowest  point.  At  one  time  this 
isthmus  must  have  been  a  waterway,  when  the  Mauis  were 
separate  islands.  This  channel  was  filled/by  S^irf  irom  Halea- 
kala,/and  finally  covered  by  wash  from  the  mountains  on  both 
sides,  forming  the  central  plain  of  Maui.  ) 

The  sand  dunes  of  the  isthmus  near  Wailuku  were  no  doubt  caused  by 
an  upheaval  of  this  part  of  Maui,  as  they  are  two  hundred  feet  high  and 
contain  fragments  of  coral  and  sea  shells ;  but  the  sand  hills  on  the  lower 
part  of  the  isthmus  are  the  product  of  the  wind. 

Formerly  numbers  of  these  dunes  could  be  seen  slowly  moving  across 
the  isthmus,  finally  being  lost  in  the  sea  on  the  opposite  side ;  but  most  of 
the  isthmus  land  has  now  been  reclaimed  by  irrigating  ditches,  and  the  rest 
is  rapidly  being  covered  with  algaroba  trees;  hence  but  a  few  of  these 
traveling  dunes  are  to  be  seen  to-day. 

Districts.  —  The  districts  of  Maui  are  Lahaina,  Wailuku, 
Makawao,  and  Hana. 

Lahaina.  —  The  Lahaina  district  includes  all  of  the  northern, 
the  western,  and  a  part  of  the  southern  slope  of  the  West  Maui 
Mountains.    The  island  of  Lanai  is  included  in  this  district. 

This  district,  being  mostly  sheltered  from  the  wind,  is  a  dry 
one,  receiving  rain  only  during  the  Kona  season.  Though  the 
main  part  of  the  district  is  practically  a  rainless  one,  yet  it  is 
well  supplied  with  water  from  many  never-failing  streams  whose 
source  is  the  Puu  Kukui  watershed. 

GEOG.  H.  T.    REV.  ~  5 


98 


MAUI 


Former  Missionary  Home,  Lahaina. 


There  are  two  plaiftations  in  this  district  —  the  Pioneer  Mill 
Company,  at  Lahaina,  and  the  Olowalu  Company. 

The  Pioneer  Mill  Company  is  one  of  the  oldest  sugar  planta- 
tions of  the  group.  By  means  of  artesian  wells,  tunneling  in 
the  mountains,  and  a  long  ditch  from  the  Honokahau  Valley, 
water  has  been  developed,  so  that  this  is  now  one  of  the  largest 
and  most  prosperous  plantations  of  the  Territory.  The  cane 
land  of  this  plantation  comprises  that  on  the  Lahaina  flat,  the 
slopes  back  of  the  town,  and  the  lower  part  of  the  Honokawai 
lands.  The  sugar  is  carried  out  by  railroad  to  Black  Rock 
(Kaanapali  Landing),  where  it  is  shipped.  The  largest  vessels 
can  come  close  in  shore  here. 

The  Olowalu  Company  is  a  small  plantation  situated  on  the 
fiat  near  the  mouth  of  the  Olowalu  gulch. 

At  Honolua  is  a  cattle  ranch  which  embraces  the  larger  part 
of  the  lands  on  the  northern  part  of  West  Maui.  Pineapples 
are  also  planted  here,  and  there  is  a  cannery. 

The  only  place  of  importance  in  this  district  is  the  village  of 
Lahaina.  At  one  time  the  town  occupied  the  whole  fiat,  but 
now  most  of  this  flat  is  planted  with  sugar  cane,  the  main  part 


WAILUKU  AND  MAKAWAO 


99 


of  the  town  being  strung  out  along  the  shore.  There  is  a  pro- 
tecting coral  reef  here  with  an  opening  through  which  boats 
may  enter. 

Lahaina  was  the  ancient  capital  of  the  group,  and  was  then  a  large  and 
flourishing  town.  The  prosperity  of  the  place  was  largely  due  to  the 
whaling  fleet  which  made  this 
a  port  of  call  for  water  and 
supplies  during  its  cruise  in 
the  north  Pacific.  It  took 
from  one  to  three  years  to 
secure  a  full  cargo  of  oil,  and 
then  the  ship  sailed  for  New 
Bedford  by  way  of  Cape  Horn. 
At  one  time  there  were  as 
many  as  89  whahng  ships 
anchored  off  the  town. 

The  port  of  Lahaina, 
which  is  an  open  road- 
stead, is  well  sheltered  by 
the  West  Maui  Moun- 
tains, except  from  the 

south  wind.   As  this  wind  Old  Ruin,  Lahaina. 

only    blows    for  short 

periods  during  the  winter  months,  the  harbor  is  usually  a  safe 
one. 

The  regular  boats  do  not  touch  at  the  Maalaea  Bay  landings, 
but  mail  and  passengers  for  East  Maui  are  landed  at  Lahaina, 
which  is  connected  with  Wailuku  by  a  good  road. 

The  wireless  station  for  Maui  is  located  at  Lahaina. 

Two  and  a  half  miles  above  Lahaina  on  the  hillside  is  the 
Lahainaluna  Seminary.  This  school  was  established  in  the 
year  1831,  and  was  long  the  leading  institution  for  the  education 
of  Hawaiian  youth.  In  the  year  1905  the  school  was  furnished 
with  new  buildings,  and  is  now  one  of  the  leading  industrial 
schools  in  the  Territory. 

Wailuku  and  Makawao. — The  Wailuku  and  Makawao  districts, 
which  occupy  the  entire  central  section  of  Maui,  have  so  many 
activities  in  common  that  they  may  be  studied  together. 


lOO 


MAUI 


Wailuku  includes  the  island  of  Kahoolawe  and  Honuaula  on 
the  extreme  southern  section  of  Maui.  Makawao,  which  in- 
cludes Kula,  covers  the  larger  part  of  the  western  slope  of 
Haleakala.  As  it  is  mostly  on  the  sheltered  side  of  the  moun- 
tain, there  are  no  deep  gulches  except  in  the  eas^tern  part. 

Central  Plain  and  Irrigation  Aqueducts.  — Cxhis  plain,  the 
greater  part  of  which  is  arid,  furnishes  a  good  example  of  what 
may  be  accomplished  by  human  energy  and  enterprise  in  re- 
claiming waste  land.  J  Water  was  supplied  through  a  system  of 
irrigation  canals  extending  forty  and  fifty  miles  into  the  rugged 
mountain  region  on  the  northern  slope  of  Haleakala. 

These  canals  were  built  in  sets,  the  upper  one  not  only  bringing  the  water 
out  at  a  higher  elevation,  but  carrying  it  further  along  the  plain.  There 
are  four  of  these  ditches,  with  a  fifth,  still  higher  up,  which  is  to  be  com- 
pleted in  two  or  three  years.  While  these  aqueducts  are  usually  spoken 
of  as  the  Maui  ditches,  each  has  its  own  name.  The  Hamakua  Ditch  was 
completed  in  1877,  being  probably  the  first  of  its  kind  ever  attempted  any- 
where. The  Koolau  Ditch  is  noted  for  its  Ditch  Trail  "  scenery,  being 
one  of  the  regular  feature  trips  of  Maui.  The  two  plantations  which  occupy 
the  central  plain  cooperate  in  the  use  of  the  water  from  these  ditches. 

Water  has  also  been  supplied  to  the  plain  from  a  ditch  into  the  West 
Maui  Mountains,  and  from  a  system  of  wells  on  the  lowlands  from  which 
water  is  pumped. 

Industries.  —  By  means  of  the  water  conveyed  to  it  by  the 
irrigation  aqueducts  spoken  of,  the  greater  part  of  the  central 
plain,  which  was  once  a  barren,  dust-swept  region,  has  been 
converted  into  what  is  now  the  finest  and  largest  sugar  estate 
of  the  group  —  the  Hawaiian  Commercial  and  Sugar  Company 
Plantation.  The  fields  of  this  plantation  occupy  the  greater 
part  of  the  plain,  reaching  in  every  direction  as  far  as  the  eye 
can  see.  Scattered  among  these  fields  are  25  workmen's  villages 
(camps) .  The  transportation  system  for  getting  the  cane  to  the 
mill  includes  75  miles  of  permanent  railroad  track  and  8  miles 
of  portable  track,  with  7  engines  and  800  cane  cars. 

In  good  years  this  estate  produces  60,000  tons  of  sugar.  The 
mill  is  located  at  Puunene,  which  is  the  name  usually  applied  to 
the  plantation.  It  is  the  largest  sugar  mill  in  the  Hawaiian 
Islands. 


WAILUKU 


lOI 


Wailuku  Town  and  Iao  Valley, 


I02 


MAUI 


The  fields  of  the  Maui  Agricuhural  Company,  which  include 
the  former  Haiku  and  Paia  plantations,  occupy  the  higher  lands 
of  the  plain  and  extend  well  up  on  the  slopes  of  Haleakala. 
This  is  the  third  largest  plantation  of  the  group. 

These  two  plantations,  which  occupy  the  main  part  of  the  central  plain 
area,  are  among  the  most  progressive  of  the  Territory,  having  originated 
many  of  the  things  that  have  placed  the  sugar  industry  of  Hawaii  second 
to  none  in  the  world.  Electricity  has  been  developed  and  not  only  applied 
to  running  extensive  machine  shops,  but  used  for  operating  the  main  irri- 
gation pumps,  all  mill  pumps  and  refrigerating  plants,  besides  supplying 
lights  for  the  hospitals,  community  houses,  and  the  mill  buildings  generally. 

These  two  plantations  have  also  been  particularly  active  in  welfare 
work,  not  only  furnishing  their  laborers  with  attractive  homes,  but  main- 
taining highly  equipped  hospitals,  day  nurseries,  kindergartens,  places  of 
amusement  and  athletic  equipment,  such  as  baseball  fields,  tennis  courts, 
bowling  alleys,  and  the  largest  swimming  tank  in  the  Territory,  at  Puunene. 

A  cement  plant  has  been  established  on  the  beach  below  the 
mill  at  Paia,  where  Portland  cement  and  a  fine  grade  of  lime  are 
made  in  sufficient  quantities  for  export.  The  lime  is  made 
from  sea  sand,  and  the  cement  from  powdered,  blue-lava  rock 
mixed  with  the  proper  ingredients,  which  are  found  on  the  island. 

At  the  Paia  Mill  there  is  a  plant  for  the  manufacture  of  de- 
natured alcohol  from  mill  refuse,  and  at  Puunene  a  stock  food 
is  made  from  molasses  and  algaroba  bean  meal.  Both  of  these 
products  are  for  use  where  they  are  made. 

The  fields  of  the  Wailuku  Plantation  occupy  the  eastern 
section  of  the  central  plain,  fringing  the  West  Maui  Mountains, 
from  which  they  draw  an  abundant  water  supply. 

Pineapples  are  grown  in  large  quantities  in  the  Haiku  section 
of  Maui,  where  there  is  a  cannery  and  can-making  establishment. 

The  upper  slopes  of  Haleakala  are  used  for  grazing  purposes. 

The  Kula  part  of  Maui  is  entirely  sheltered  from  the  trade 
winds,  having  a  climate  that  is  somewhat  different  from  other 
parts  of  the  group.  The  black  soil  found  here  is  a  vegetable 
loam,  indicating  that  this  section  was  once  covered  with  a  heavy 
forest  growth,  which  was  cleared  by  settlers  or  destroyed  by 
cattle.  The  Kula  farms  are  located  in  this  black-soil  area, 
which  is  at  an  elevation  of  two  or  three  thousand  feet  above  sea 


WAILUKU  AND  MAKAWAO 


103 


level.  Corn,  beans,  potatoes,  and  live  stock  are  chiefly  raised 
here.  There  is  a  sanitarium  in  Kula  for  the  treatment  of  pul- 
monary diseases,  the  climate  being  well  suited  for  this  purpose. 

Towns  and  Transportation.  —  Kahului  is  the  chief  seaport 
for  the  island  of  Maui.  The  harbor  is  well  protected  by  break- 
waters built  out  on  each  side  of  the  bay,  and  has  been  enlarged 
by  dredging,  so  that  the  deep-sea  ships  which  enter  here  have 
ample  sea  room.  Kahului  is  connected  by  railroad  with  all  the 
principal  places  of  Maui,  being  a  busy  port  during  the  sugar 
season.  It  is  the  port  of  entry  for  the  island,  with  a  custom- 
house, a  national  bank,  and  some  good  stores;  but  Kahului  is 
chiefly  important  as  a  shipping  point.  As  the  ground  about  the 
town  is  low  and  marshy,  it  is  not  a  popular  place  of  residence. 

Wailuku,  a  pretty  town  and  a  scenic  center  located  in  the 
mouth  of  the  lao  Valley,  is  the  western  terminal  of  the  Kahu- 
lui Railroad.  Owing  to  its  central  location  between  East  and 
West  Maui,  it  was  selected  as  the  county  seat.  Many  travelers 
come  to  Wailuku  to  visit  the  beautiful  lao  gorge,  where,  by 
a  short  auto-drive,  one  may  almost  reach  the  heart  of  the 
wonderful  West  Maui  Mountains.  It  was  in  the  lao  gorge  that 
Kamehameha  defeated  Kalanikupuli,  the  king  of  Oahu  and 
Maui,  in  the  famous  battle  of  Wailuku,  when  it  is  said  the 
stream  ran  red  with  blood.  By  this  victory  Kamehameha  made 
himself  master  of  Maui. 

Puunene  is  the  central  camp  for  the  Hawaiian  Commercial 
and  Sugar  Company  Plantation,  the  mill,  executive  offices  and 
plantation  residences  being  located  here. 

Paia  is  the  community  center  for  the  Makawao  district.  The 
name  is  applied  to  a  region  which  extends  from  the  village  on  the 
main  road  near  the  sea  beach  to  the  point  where  the  community 
house,  church,  and  hospital  are  located,  three  miles  above.  In 
between  lies  the  main  plantation  camp,  where  the  mill,  executive 
offices,  and  general  store  are  located.  The  church,  which  is  a 
memorial  building,  is  a  very  beautiful  structure. 

The  Maunaolu  Seminary  for  girls  is  situated  a  short  dis- 
tance above  the  church.  The  Maui  high  school  is  located  at 
Hamakuapoko. 


I04 


MAUI 


Haiku  is  the  eastern  terminal  of  the  Kahului  Raihoad,  and  the 
site  of  the  Haiku  Fruit  and  Packing  Company's  pineapple 
cannery.    It  is  a  homestead  section. 

The  Makena  landing  is  seldom  used  now,  as  the  Kula  farmers 
send  their  produce  to  Kahului  for  shipment. 

Kihei  is  the  present  landing  for  Maalaea  Bay,  though  it  is 
not  used  by  the  regular  mail  and  passenger  boats. 

Hana.  —  The  Hana  district  is  made  up  of  the  lands  of  Kahi- 
kinui,  Kaupo,  Kipahulu,  Hana,  and  Koolau,  in  the  eastern  end 
of  the  island.    It  has  a  scattering  and  sparse  population. 

Kahikinui  and  Kaupo,  being  on  the  southern  or  sheltered 
slope  of  the  mountain,  are  largely  waste  land ;  they  are  used 
chiefly  for  grazing  purposes. 

In  contrast  to  that  part  of  the  district  on  Haleakala's  south- 
ern slope,  the  eastern  and  northern  section  has  a  heavy  rainfall, 
with  a  climate  somewhat  similar  to  parts  of  Hilo  on  Hawaii. 

There  is  a  good  driving  road  from  Kipahulu  to  Nahiku,  but  beyond  this 
there  is  only  a  trail.  This  trail  extends  along  the  greater  part  of  the  northern 
slope  of  Haleakala.  Formerly  this  trail  was  near  the  seashore,  but  now  it 
has  been  built  higher  up  on  the  slope  of  the  mountain,  where  the  gulches 
are  small ;  and  so  the  deep  valleys,  with  their  fords  which  are  dangerous 
in  the  rainy  season,  are  avoided.    The  scenery  along  this  trail  is  very  fine. 

There  are  two  small  plantations  in  this  district :  the  Kipahulu 
Sugar  Company,  and  the  Kaeleku  Plantation  at  Hana. 

Rubber  growing  was  once  a  prominent  industry  in  Nahiku, 
but  the  plantations  were  abandoned. 

The  principal  place  of  the  district  is  Hana  town,  which  is  pic- 
turesquely situated  on  the  bay  just  back  of  Kauiki  Head.  The 
only  good  landing  in  the  district  is  at  Hana ;  large  ships  can 
find  a  safe  anchorage  in  the  bay  here. 

Keanae  is  a  village  at  the  mouth  of  the  Keanae  Valley.  It  is  built 
partly  on  the  peninsula  formed  by  the  lava  which  flowed  into  the  sea 
through  Koolau  gap.    Kaupo  is  a  small  place  just  below  Kaupo  gap. 

During  ancient  times  Hana  Bay  was  a  convenient  landing  for  canoes 
coming  from  Hawaii.  In  times  of  war  Kauiki  hill  was  used  as  a  fort.  A 
paved  road  was  built  around  East  Maui  in  the  sixteenth  century ;  on  the 
hillsides  the  flat  cobblestones  of  which  it  was  made  were  placed  on  edge. 
Portions  of  this  ancient  road  are  still  in  use. 


MOLOKAI 


Physical  Features.  —  Molokai  is  a  long,  narrow  island  lying 
east  and  west  directly  between  Oahu  and  Maui. 

The  island,  which  is  about  forty  miles  long  by  ten  miles  wide, 
can  be  included  in  a  rectangle  whose  length  is  four  times  its  width. 


Cliffs  seen  from  Leper  Settlement,  Molokai. 


The  north  coast  is  bold  and  rugged,  showing  on  the  northeast 
end  extraordinary  cliffs  like  those  found  on  the  windward  side 
of  Hawaii  and  on  the  northwest  coast  of  Kauai. 

An  extensive  barrier  reef  extends  along  the  entire  southern 
shore,  which  is  low.  At  Kaunakakai,  Kamalo,  and  Pukoo  this 
reef  has  made  excellent  harbors. 


io6 


MOLOKAI 


\57'z6  Longitude  ist^io  West  from  isz'o  Greenwich 


2\\< 


Molokai  is  a  double  cone.  The  smaller  cone,  which  lies 
towards  the  west,  is  dry  and  barren,  and  of  no  commercial 
value. 

The  highest  point  of  the  larger,  or  eastern,  section  of  the 
island  is  Kamakou,  4958  feet  above  sea  level.  This  peak  is  at 
the  south  end  of  the  narrow  ridge  dividing  the  Pelekunu  and 
Wailau  valleys. 

The  unusual  formation  found  in  this  eastern  section  of  the 
island  must  have  been  the  result  of  a  great  fault,  when  the  north 
side  of  the  mountain  broke  away  and  slipped  into  the  sea,  form- 
ing the  cliffs  along  the  coast.  Since  the  fault,  the  region  has  been 
cut  up  by  erosion,  forming  the  inaccessible  gulches  of  which  the 
Wailau  and  Pelekunu  are  the  largest.  All  together  this  is  one 
of  the  most  remarkable  sections  of  the  group. 

Industries.  —  Owing  to  the  lack  of  water  in  its  desirable  sec- 
tions, Molokai  is  of  no  great  commercial  value. 

The  larger  part  of  the  island  is  devoted  to  cattle  raising. 
Taro  is  grown  in  Pelekunu  and  Wailau  for  the  leper  settlement. 

Formerly  there  were  a  great  many  fish  ponds  within  the 
barrier  reef  along  the  southern  shore  of  the  island,  but  only  a 


INDUSTRIES  107 

few  of  the  largest  of  these  ponds 
are  in  use  now.  The  inclosing 
walls  of  many  have  fallen  to  pieces, 
while  others  have  become  filled 
with  debris  washed  down  during 
storms. 

There  is  a  good  harbor  at 
Kaunakakai,  where  a  wharf  half 
a  mile  long  has  been  built.  Vessels 
can  lie  alongside  this  wharf,  except 
in  very  rough  weather.  There  are 
good  landings  also  at  Kamalo  and 
Pukoo. 

With  the  exception  of  the  leper 
settlement    at    Kalaupapa,  the 
places  of  Molokai  are  of  no  im- 
portance.   Wailau  and  Pelekunu 
are  accessible  only  from  the  sea. 

Kalaupapa.  —  At  the  base  of  the  cliffs  near  the  middle  of  the 
north  side  of  Molokai  there  is  a  peninsula  which  juts  out  into  the 
sea,  being  an  outflow  of  lava  from  the  Makanaloa  crater.  The 
bowl  of  this  crater  is  at  sea  level,  and  is  filled  with  sea  water 
which  has  a  mean  depth  of  300  feet,  falling  away  to  750  feet  in 
one  spot. 

I  Located  on  this  peninsula,  midst  rugged  though  not  unat- 
'  tractive  surroundings,  is  the  leper  settlement  of  Kalaupapa,  cut 

off  on  the  land  side  by  cliffs  1500  feet  high  and  on  the  other  side 
,   by  the  sea.    The  peninsula  contains  780  acres.    Kalaupapa  is 

the  western  section.    The  opposite,  or  eastern,  side  is  called 

Kalawao. 

In  1 91 8  there  were  702  residents  at  the  settlement,  608  of 
I   whom  were  lepers.    While  the  lepers  are  allowed  land  which 
^   they  can  cultivate,  they  derive  their  chief  support  from  the 
government,  which  does  everything  possible  to  alleviate  their  un- 
fortunate condition.    Separate  homes  are  maintained  for  the 
boys  and  girls  of  lepers,  and  for  those  who  are  helpless.  There 
^   is  also  a  general  hospital  and  a  nursery. 


io8 


MOLOKAI,  LANAI 


The  Federal  Leprosy  Investigation  Station  which  was  started 
at  the  settlement  has  been  removed  to  Oahu,  where  it  is  operated 
in  connection  with  the  Kalihi  Hospital  with  a  trained  bacteriol- 
ogist in  charge.  As  the  result  of  investigations  carried  on  at 
this  station,  remedies  have  been  discovered  which  appear  in 
certain  cases  to  have  brought  about  a  cure  for  the  dread  disease 
of  leprosy. 


Leper  Settlement  at  Kalaupapa. 


LANAI 

Lanai  is  on  the  lee  side  of  West  Maui,  its  nearest  point  being 
nine  miles  distant.    The  island  contains  139  square  miles. 

Lanai  is  a  single  cone  3400  feet  high.  •  On  the  west  or  lee 
side  of  the  island  there  are  cliffs  three  or  four  hundred  feet  high 
in  places.  This  side  of  the  island  consists  of  a  gently  sloping 
plateau,  or  a  succession  of  terraces. 


KAHOOLAWE 


109 


Being  on  the  sheltered  side  of  Maui,  Lanai  does  not  show 
much  erosion,  though  there  are  a  number  of  small  gulches. 
There  are  some  springs  on  the  island  and  one  running  stream. 

There  are  small  forest  trees  on  the  summit,  and  the  plateau 
on  the  lee  side  is  fine  grazing  land,  but  otherwise  the  island  is 
barren. 

Lanai  is  devoted  to  cattle  and  sheep  raising.  It  is  entirely 
free  from  noxious  weeds. 

There  are  two  small  government  schools  on  the  island. 

KAHOOLAWE 

Kahoolawe  is  the  smallest  of  the  inhabited  islands  of  the 
group,  containing  69  square  miles. 

The  island  consists  of  a  single  cone,  1472  feet  high.  It  is 
almost  entirely  surrounded  by  cliffs,  which  are  200  feet  high  in 
places. 

Being  on  the  protected  side  of  Maui,  the  island  presents  an 
even,  unbroken  surface.  There  are  no  streams  or  even  springs 
on  the  island,  which  has  very  little  vegetation. 

Kahoolawe  supports  but  a  few  head  of  cattle  or  sheep,  and 
is  of  hardly  any  commercial  value. 

There  are  usually  a  few  herders  living  on  the  island. 


KAUAI 


Physical  Features.  —  Kauai  is  at  the  extreme  northwest  end 
of  the  main  group,  and  is  the  smallest  of  the  four  larger  islands. 
Its  area  is  547  square  miles,  which  is  51  square  miles  less  than 
that  of  Oahu. 


Kauai  is  nearly  circular,  and,  with  the  exception  of  the  Mana 
flat,  which  is  composed  of  an  uplifted  coral  reef,  could  be  in- 
cluded in  a  circle  whose  radius  is  a  line  from  the  Nawiliwili 
lighthouse  to  a  point  in  the  head  of  the  Wainiha  Valley  west  of 
Waialeale. 


no 


PHYSICAL  FEATURES 


IT  I 


The  coast  line  of  Kauai  is  very  regular,  containing  no  promi- 
nent capes,  or  bays  of  any  extent.  The  so-called  Haena  Point 
is  one  of  two  spurs  of  the  Wainiha  ridge,  forming  a  headland 
which  is  separated  from  the  sea  by  the  coastal  plain  which  forms 
Haena  flat. 

Hanalei  Bay,  which  is  as  large  as  Kealakekua  on  Hawaii,  is 
a  typical  Hawaiian  inlet,  with  its  protecting  coral  reef  and 
passageway.  Nawiliwili  Bay  has  sea  room  for  only  small-sized 
vessels. 

The  shore  is  low,  except  on  the  northwest,  where  there  are 
high  cliffs  extending  along  the  coast  for  fifteen  miles. 

Owing  to  the  depth  of  water  near  the  shore,  there  are  no  coral 
reefs  of  any  extent.  It  may  be  that  there  were  such  reefs  off 
the  coast  of  Kauai  at  one  time,  but  the  space  between  the  reef 
and  the  shore  has  been  filled  with  wash  from  the  slopes  above, 
thus  adding  to  the  coastal  plain. 


112 


KAUAI 


Waialeale.  —  Kauai  is  made  up  of  the  mountain  mass  of 
Waialeale,  5250  feet  high.  From  the  summit  the  ridges  radiate 
in  all  directions,  though  on  the  eastern  side  they  are  very 
short. 

The  eastern  and  northern  sides  have  been  tremendously 
eroded,  and  on  the  east  there  is  left  scarcely  a  vestige  of  the 
original  slope  which  is  indicated  by  only  a  few  short  ridges. 
The  opposite  side  is  furrowed  by  a  number  of  deep  gorges,  but 
the  original  contour  is  still  preserved  in  the  wide  spaces  be- 
tween them,  which  comprise  the  upper  cane  fields  of  the  plan- 
tations on  this  side  of  the  island. 

These  ridges  are  low  near  the  sea,  and  are  gradually  lost  in 
the  coastal  plain,  but  become  narrow  and  precipitous  as  the 
gulch  extends  inland,  finally  forming  a  veritable  canyon. 

The  Hoary  Head  ridge  on  the  southeast  is  a  part  of  the 
original  backbone  of  the  mountain  which  was  intersected  by 
the  gap  north  of  Koloa,  through  which  the  government  road  to 
Lihue  passes.  The  highest  point  of  this  ridge  is  Hoary  Head 
(Haupu),  2030  feet  high. 

The  Waimea  gulch,  which  extends  across  the  western  slope 
of  Waialeale,  intersecting  all  the  ridges  on  this  side  of  the 
island,  is  not  wholly  the  result  of  erosion,  but  originated  in  a 
fissure. 

Originally  Waialeale  must  have  been  much  higher  than  it  is 
now.  The  soil  has  been  washed  from  the  summit  and  slopes  to 
form  the  coastal  plain  which  encircles  Kauai,  with  the  excep- 
tion of  the  northwest  side. 

From  the  amount  of  erosion  that  has  gone  on,  we  infer  that 
Kauai  is  the  oldest  island  of  the  group. 

The  section  of  the  mountain  between  the  Wainiha  and  Waimea 
valleys  has  a  gentle  slope  towards  the  latter  gulch,  and  is  of  a 
boggy  nature.  Were  it  not  for  the  deep  Koaieaie  gorge  which 
intersects  it,  this  region  would  consist  of  almost  a  continuous 
swamp.  Sections  of  this  bog  are  covered  with  a  thin  turf,  and 
are  impassable.  In  ancient  times,  it  is  said,  the  northern  section 
of  the  morass  was  crosssed  by  a  path  made  of  logs,  but  the 
passage  was  a  hazardous  one,  for  the  logs  were  submerged  in 


MOUNTAINS 


113 


places,  and  it  was  difficult  to  find  this  path  in  the  dense  fog 
which  usually  covers  the  mountain. 

This  swamp  is  the  reservoir  which  feeds  all  the  streams  that 
go  to  make  up  the  Waimea,  Makaweli,  and  Hanapepe  rivers, 
making  a  splendid  watershed  for  the  lee  side  of  the  island,  which 
is  thus  abundantly  supplied  with  water  even  though  it  may  not 
rain  for  months  at  a  time. 

Owing  to  the  difficult  nature  of  the  trip  to  the  summit,  which 
can  be  reached  only  by  skirting  the  bog,  Waialeale  has  seldom 
been  ascended.  For  many  years  the  true  height  of  this  moun- 
tain was  not  known. 

Napali.  - —  The  northwest  side  of  Kauai,  known  as  Napali,  is 
similar  to  the  windward  or  North  Kohala  section  of  Hawaii,  and 
the  northeast  or  Wailau  and  Pelekunu  section  of  Molokai,  show- 
ing remarkable  clifTs  of  the  same  kind  rising  almost  perpen- 
dicularly from  the  sea  to  a  height  of  more  than  a  thousand  feet 
in  some  places.  However,  it  is  to  be  noticed  in  this  case  that 
the  cliffs  are  on  the  northwest,  where  they  are  partly  protected 
from  the  wind,  instead  of  being  on  the  windward  side  of  the 
island  as  in  the  cases  of  Hawaii  and  Molokai. 

The  gulches  in  this  Napali  section  are  short,  ending  at  the 
ridge  back  of  Waimea  Valley.  They  show  the  effects  of  much 
erosion  in  many  needle-like  shafts  and  in  wide  amphitheaters  at 
their  heads.  In  that  part  of  this  section  farthest 'south  these 
gulches  enter  the  sea  through  narrow,  canyon-like  walls,  cutting 
off  all  view  of  the  interior. 

The  Kalalau  Valley  is  the  largest  of  the  gulches  in  this  region. 
In  ancient  times  there  were  a  large  number  of  natives  living 
here,  but  only  a  few  huts  remain  at  present.  It  was  among  the 
inaccessible  ridges  in  the  head  of  this  gulch  that  the  leper  Koolau 
intrenched  himself,  eluding  all  efforts  of  the  authorities  to 
capture  him. 

Some  of  the  finest  scenery  in  the  Hawaiian  Islands  is  to 
be  found  in  this  NapaH  region,  but  owing  to  its  inaccessibihty 
the  place  is  seldom  visited.  There  is  a  trail  along  the  cliffs 
as  far  as  Kalalau,  but  beyond  this  the  journey  to  Mana  must  be 
made  by  a  canoe  trip  of  seven  miles. 


114 


KAUAI 


Valleys.  —  Kauai  is  noted  for  its  gulches,  which  are  among  the 
finest  in  the  world.     They  are  longer  than  the  gulches  on  the 

other  islands,  and  are 
very  deep  in  their 
upper  portions,  being 
confined  between  can- 
yon-like walls.  These 
gulches  all  contain 
large  streams  of  water 
which,  as  they  spread 
out  on  the  low,  flat 
lands  of  the  coastal 
plain,  are  called 
rivers. 

So  inaccessible  is 
the  interior  of  Kauai 
that  its  real  nature 
was  not  known  till  it 
was  penetrated  by  the 
plantation  tunnels 
and  ditches  in  search 
of  water.  So  the 
Olokele  tunnel  dis- 
closed the  wonderful 


The  Olokele  Canyon,  Kauai. 


canyon  from  which  the  ditch  takes  its  name,  and  the  Kauai 
Electric  Company's  ditch  opened  up  the  magnificent  scenery 
in  the  great  Wainiha  gorge. 

The  Wainiha  Valley  is  undoubtedly  one  of  the  finest  of  our 
Hawaiian  gulches.  This  gulch  has  cut  its  way  between  perpen- 
dicular walls,  several  thousand  feet  high  in  its  upper  part,  into 
the  very  heart  of  Waialeale,  almost  intersecting  the  ridge  upon 
which  the  peak  stands. 

The  Hanalei  Valley  contains  the  largest  stream  of  any  of  our 
Hawaiian  gulches.  It  is  navigable  for  boats  and  small  steam 
launches  for  three  miles.  The  river  is  used  for  transporting 
the  rice  grown  in  the  gulch. 

Between  the  Hanalei  and  Wainiha  valleys  is  the  Lumahai 


MOUNTAINS 


115 


River.  The  Lumahai  is  now  spanned  by  a  bridge,  and  so  has 
disappeared  the  last  of  the  Kauai  ferries,  which  were  a  charac- 
teristic feature  of  travel  in  this  region  at  one  time. 

Wailua  and  Hanapepe  are  chiefly  noted  for  their  beautiful 
waterfalls.  Boats  can  sail  up  the  former  for  a  distance  of  a  mile 
and  a  half.  The  two  branches  of  the  Wailua  unite  near  the  sea, 
where  the  sea  has  cut  its  way  through  a  ridge,  forming  a  deep 
gorge. 

The  Waimea  Canyon  plays  an  important  part  in  the  drainage 
of  the  west  side  of  the  island,  intersecting  the  slope  of  the  moun- 
tain on  this  side  and  turning  all  the  streams  through  its  own 
channel  toward  the  south,  thus  depriving  the  extreme  west- 
ern section  of  Kauai  of  any  running  streams  of  water.  The 
scenery  in  this  gorge  has  been  compared  with  that  of  the  Grand 
Canyon  of  the  Colorado. 

The  Makaweli  gulch  has  worn  away  the  intervening  ridge 
near  the  sea,  and  is  now  a  branch  of  the  Waimea ;  the  Olokele 
in  turn  is  a  branch  of  the  Makaweli. 

Secondary  or  Tufa  Cones.  —  There  are  a  number  of  secondary 
cones  on  Kauai  that  have  played  an  important  part  in  the  gen- 
eral topography  of  the  island.  These  cones,  like  those  on  Oahu, 
were  formed  after  the  island  had  attained  its  present  state  of 
erosion.  Some  of  the  craters  in  these  cones  are  used  as  reser- 
voirs by  the  plantations. 

The  largest  of  these  cones  is  the  Kilohana  crater  west  of 
Lihue,  which  is  iioo  feet  high.  The  material  ejected  from 
this  crater  covers  all  the  region  from  the  Hoary  Head  ridge  to 
the  Wailua  River,  burying  beneath  its  debris  the  valleys  and 
ridges  that  existed  here  at  one  time.  The  streams  have  been 
forced  to  cut  new  channels  through  this  debris,  flowing  around 
the  cone  into  the  Wailua  River  on  one  side  and  the  Huleia  on 
the  other. 

In  a  similar  manner  the  valleys  and  ridges  of  the  mountain 
spur  on  the  northeast  have  been  covered  up  by  material  ejected 
from  craters  in  that  region.  The  bowl  in  one  of  these  craters  is 
used  as  a  reservoir  by  the  Kilauea  Plantation. 

At  Koloa  a  dam  has  been  constructed  across  the  gap  in  an 


ii6 


KAUAI 


old  cone,  and  the  lake  thus  confined  furnishes  a  fine  water  supply 
for  the  plantation. 

The  cones  near  the  Koloa  landing  mark  the  site  of  a  compara- 
tively recent  pahoehoe  outbreak,  which  was  the  last  eruption 
on  Kauai. 

Haena  Caves.  —  In  the  cliff  at  Haena  there  are  a  number  of 
caves.  Two  of  them  are  at  sea  level  and  are  filled  with  water, 
that  in  one  of  them  being  entirely  sweet.  These  caves  are  en- 
larged chambers  of  old  lava  tunnels,  and  evidently  extend  into 
the  cliff  for  some  distance.  Owing  to  the  water  with  which 
they  are  filled,  it  is  impossible  to  explore  them.  A  canoe  has 
been  placed  in  one  of  the  caves  for  visitors. 

Barking  Sands.  —  The  barking  sands  consist  of  a  range  of 
wind-blown  sand  hills  half  a  mile  in  length,  extending  from 
Nohili  towards  Polihale.  When  thoroughly  dry,  this  sand  be- 
comes resonant  whenever  its  grains  are  set  in  motion. 

While  these  sands  are  called  barking  sands,''  they  emit  a 
great  variety  of  sounds,  according  to  the  method  of  friction ;  at 
times  the  sound  resembles  subterranean  thunder ;  again  it  will 
be  a  sighing  or  a  faint  groaning  as  of  some  one  in  pain ;  as  the 
wind  forms  little  cascades,  there  is  a  rustling  sound  as  from  a 
lady's  silk  skirts.  The  act  of  sliding  down  the  sand  hills  pro- 
duces a  sound  having  cadence  periods ;  they  were  probably 
named  for  this. 

This  phenomenon  is  a  rare  one,  being  common  to  only  a  fev/ 
places  in  the  world.  It  is  said  that  there  is  a  hill  of  barking 
sand  at  Makua  on  Oahu.  In  climate  this  latter  place  is  similar  to 
Mana,  which  is  one  of  the  hottest  and  driest  spots  of  the  group. 

Vegetation.  —  At  one  time  Kauai  was  covered  with  forests 
on  the  north  and  east  to  the  water's  edge,  when  it  must  have 
presented  a  very  tropical  appearance ;  this,  taken  together  with 
the  fact  that  the  island  is  well  watered  in  every  part  with  running 
streams,  undoubtedly  gave  it  its  sobriquet,  The  Garden 
Island." 

Industries.  —  An  ahnost  continuous  belt  of  sugar  cane  girds 
the  island  of  Kauai  from  Mana  to  Kalihiwai  on  the  north. 
All  the  lowlands  of  the  coastal  plain  and  valley  bottoms  are 


INDUSTRIES 


117 


planted  with  rice.  The  area  on  the  north  planted  with  rice  ex- 
ceeds that  of  any  other  part  of  the  group.  Rice  mills  are  located 
at  Waimea  and  Hanalei. 

Pineapples  are  grown  at  Kapaa  on  the  northeastern  section 
of  Kauai,  and  near  Lawai  in  the  southeastern  part,  where  there 
are  canneries. 

On  the  uplands  of  Kauai  there  are  a  number  of  cattle  ranches. 
At  Hanalei  buffalo  grass  has  been  sown  in  the  fields,  greatly 
improving  the  pasture. 


Kauai,  the  "  Garden  Island  "  (Wainiha  \  alley;. 


The  splendid  water  sources  of  Kauai  have  not  only  been  uti- 
lized to  bring  under  cultivation  nearly  all  of  the  arable  land  on 
this  island,  but  have  been  the  incentive  for  a  further  step  in  the 
development  of  the  sugar  industry  of  the  group,  through  the 
evolution  of  the  tunnel-ditch  and  the  application  of  electricity 
on  a  large  scale  to  the  running  of  plantation  machinery. 

The  Kekaha  Plantation  ^  completed  a  new  ditch  in  1907,  bring- 
ing the  Waimea  Valley  water  into  its  fields.  Previous  to  this 
only  the  land  on  the  low  coastal  plain  was  cultivated,  but  now 
a  portion  of  the  upland  is  planted  as  well.  Pumps  are  still  used 
for  irrigation  in  some  of  the  lowlands. 

A  great  deal  of  made  land  has  been  added  to  this  estate  by 
the  construction  of  dams,  which  caused  the  sediment  carried  in 
flood  water  to  drop  as  its  velocity  was  checked. 

Makaweli,  which  is  one  of  the  most  prosperous  plantations  of 
the  group,  occupies  what  was  once  a  dry  kula^  capable  of  sup- 
porting but  a  few  head  of  horses  and  cattle.    Water  was  first 

^  See  Appendix  A  for  list  of  plantations. 

GEOG.  H,  I.  REV.  —  6 


KAUAI 


secured  from  the  Hanapepe  Valley,  and  later  from  the  Olokele 
canyon,  which  is  the  main  branch  of  the  Makaweli  stream. 
These  two  ditches  give  an  abundant  supply  of  water  even  in  the 
driest  weather.  The  building  of  the  Olokele  ditch  was  a  great 
engineering  feat,  the  upper  portion  being  a  continuous  tunnel 
for  six  miles  within  the  cliff  of  the  wonderful  Olokele  canyon. 

The  McBryde  Sugar  Company  secures  its  water  supply  from 
pumps  in  the  Hanapepe  Valley,  which  are  operated  by  electricity. 
This  electricity  is  developed  by  water  power  in  the  Wainiha 
gulch  on  the  opposite  side  of  the  island,  and  conveyed  to  the 
pumps  by  a  system  of  wires  and  poles  thirty-five  miles  long.  The 
cane  land  of  this  plantation  extends  from  Hanapepe  into  Koloa. 

Koloa  and  Lihue  are  two  of  the  oldest  plantations  on  the 
Hawaiian  Islands.  The  Lihue  Plantation  includes  Hanamaulu. 
There  is  a  separate  mill  at  the  latter  place.  Both  plantations 
secure  water  from  mountain  streams  and  a  system  of  reservoirs. 

At  Kealia  there  are  a  number  of  flowing  artesian  wells. 

Kilauea  is  well  watered,  but  the  soil  here  is  poor. 

Transportation.  —  The  Kauai  Railway  connects  the  Makaweli, 
McBryde,  and  Koloa  plantations  with  Port  Allen  (Eleele)  in 
Hanapepe  Bay,  where  deep-sea  vessels  bring  supplies  for  the 
plantations,  taking  sugar  as  a  return  cargo.  The  open  road- 
stead at  Port  Allen  has  been  protected  with  a  breakwater  which 
permits  ships  to  approach  fairly  close  to  the  shore,  but  which 
does  not  afford  sufficient  shelter  from  storm  winds. 

Aside  from  the  three  mentioned,  the  Kauai  plantations  main- 
tain their  own  landings,  with  Honolulu  as  the  distributing  center. 
One  of  the  best  landings  is  at  Ahukini  in  Hanamaulu  Bay,  where 
vessels  can  lie  alongside  the  wharf,  or  very  nearly  so.  The  Lihue 
Plantation  sugar  is  shipped  from  this  landing. 

Nawiliwili  is  the  chief  mail  and  passenger  port  for  Kauai, 
though  the  landing  is  a  rough  one  as  it  is  exposed  to  the  trade 
wind.  Plans  are  ready  for  building  a  breakwater  and  deepening 
the  bay  by  dredging,  thus  making  a  good  harbor. 

Districts.  —  The  districts  of  Kauai  are  Waimea,  Koloa,  Lihue,  , 
Kawaihau,  and  Hanalei  (including  also  Napali). 

Waimea  is  the  largest  of  these,  occupying  the  whole  western 


TRANSPORTATION 


119 


part  of  the  island,  which  includes  the  entire  dry  section  of  Kauai. 
This  district  includes  also  the  island  of  Niihau. 

Hanalei  occupies  the  largest  part  of  the  northern  section  of 
the  island ;  this  is  an  extremely  wet  district,  having  as  great  a 
rainfall  as  Hilo  on  Hawaii. 

Places.  —  Lihue  is  the  county  seat  of  Kauai  County.  The 
village  is  scattered  along  both  banks  of  the  Nawiliwili  gulch. 
The  wireless  station  is  located  near  the  Nawiliwili  landing. 


Waimea  Village. 


Waimea  village  is  at  the  mouth  of  the  Waimea  River.  At  one 
time  there  was  a  large  native  population  here,  when  it  was  the 
capital  of  Kauai.  Captain  Cook  first  landed  on  the  Hawaiian 
Islands  at  the  mouth  of  the  Waimea  River.  On  the  bluff  east 
of  the  river  mouth  are  the  ruins  of  a  Russian  fort  built  in  the 
year  181 5,  ostensibly  for  Kaumualii,  the  king  of  Kauai,  but  with 
the  secret  purpose  of  annexing  the  island  to  Russia. 

Koloa  is  a  pretty  village  near  the  extreme  southeast  end  of  the 
island.  The  landing  for  the  village  is  an  open  roadstead  two 
miles  away  ;   this  was  the  chief  port  for  Kauai  at  one  time. 


I20 


KAUAI,  NIIHAU 


Hanapepe,  Eleele,  and  Kapaa  are  important  villages.  At  each 
of  the  plantation  mills  there  are  also  good-sized  settlements. 

Hanalei  is  one  of  the  most  picturesque  parts  of  the  group. 
The  view  looking  down  into  the  gulch  from  the  east  bank,  with 
the  broad  river  winding  through  rice  fields  in  the  foreground 
and  the  bay  and  cloud-capped  peaks  and  ridges  in  the  distance, 
is  one  of  unsurpassed  beauty. 


Hanalei  Valley,  Kauai. 


There  is  a  small  settlement  at  Wainiha  near  the  mouth  of  the 
river.  The  Kauai  Electric  Company's  power  house  is  located 
two  miles  above  in  the  gulch. 

NIIHAU 

Niihau  is  17  miles  west  of  Kauai,  from  which  it  is  separated 
by  a  deep  channel.  The  island  contains  97  square  miles,  and 
its  highest  point  is  1300  feet  above  sea  level. 

This  island  has  a  high  middle  section,  with  a  low  plain  at  each 
end.  On  the  north  are  precipitous  cliffs  where  the  highland 
joins  the  flat.  Water  is  pumped  from  shallow  wells.  The 
island,  which  is  a  private  estate,  is  devoted  to  sheep  raising. 

The  famous  Niihau  mats  are  made  from  a  reed  that  grows  in 
the  marshes.  This  reed  has  a  red  base ;  otherwise  it  is  similar 
to  the  rushes  found  on  other  parts  of  the  group.  The  mats  are 
made  chiefly  at  Mana  on  Kauai.  A  small  white  shell  is  found 
on  the  beaches,  which  is  strung  into  necklaces. 

With  one  or  two  exceptions,  the  people  of  Niihau  are 
Hawaiians.    The  government  maintains  a  school  and  road  here. 


APPENDIX  A 


OAHU 


CAPES 

Kahuku  Point 
Mokapu  Point 
Makapuu  Point 
Diamond  Head 
Barber's  Point 
Kaena  Point 


BAYS  AND 
HARBORS 

Honolulu  Harbor 
Pearl  Harbor 
Kaneohe  Bay 
Waialua  Bay 
Kahana  Bay 


MOUNTAINS 


TOWNS  AND 
VILLAGES 

Honolulu 

Watertown 

Aiea 

Pearl  City 
Waipahu 
Ewa  Mill 
Waianae 


HEIGHT 

Waialua 

Kaala  Waianae  Range 

•  4030 

feet 

Schofield  Barracks 

Palikea  Waianae  Range 

.  3111 

feet 

Wahiawa 

Konahuanui 

•  3105 

feet 

Kahuku 

Lanihuli 

•  2775 

feet 

Laie 

Tantalus  (Puu  Ohia)  . 

•  2013 

feet 

Hauula 

Olympus  (Awawaloa) 

•  2447 

feet 

Waikane 

Round.  Top  (Ualakaa) 

.  1049 

feet 

Heeia 

Punchbowl  (Puowaena) 

.  498 

feet 

Kaneohe 

Diamond  Head  (Leahi) 

761 

feet 

Waimanalo 

HAWAII 

CAPES 

BAYS 

PLACES 

Upolu  Point  Hilo  Bay 

Kumukahi  Point  Kealakekua  Bay 

South  Point  (Ka  Kawaihae  Bay 

Lae)  Kailua  Bay 


MOUNTAINS 


Mauna  Kea 
Mauna  Loa 
Tlualalai  . 
Kohala  Mountains 
Crater  of  Kilauea 


HEIGHT 

13,825  feet 
13,675  feet 
8,269  feet 
5,489  feet 
4,000  feet 


(Kohala) 

Kawaihae 

Mahukona 

Hawi 

Kapaau 

Makapala 

Waimea 

(Hamakua) 

Waipio 
Kukuihaele 


PLANTATIONS 

Honolulu  Plantation 
Co. 

Oahu  Sugar  Co. 
Ewa  Plantation  Co. 
Waianae  Co. 
Waialua  Agricultural 
Co. 

Kahuku  Plantation 
Co. 

Waimanalo  Sugar 
Co. 

Laie  Plantation 


PLANTATIONS 

(Kohala) 

Puakea  Plantation 
Co.  (Planters  only) 
Hawi      Mill  and 

Plantation 
Union  Mill  Co. 
Kohala  Sugar  Co. 
Halawa  Plantation 
Niulii  Mill  and  Plan- 
tation 

{Continued  on  next  page.) 


121 


122 


APPENDIX  A 


HAWAII  —  Continued 


PASSENGER 
AND  MAIL 
LANDINGS 

Kawaihae 
Mahukona 
Laupahoehoe 
Hilo 

Honuapo 

Hoopuloa 

Hookena 

Napoopoo 

Keauhou 

Kailua 


PLANTATION 
LANDINGS 

Kukuihaele 

Honokaa 

Paauhau 

Honohina 

Hakalau 

Honomu 

Pepeekeo 

Papaikou 

Wainaku 

Punaluu 


PLACES 

Honokaa 
Paauhau 
Paauilo 
Kukaiau 

(Hilo) 

Ookala 

Laupahoehoe 

Papaaloa 

Hakalau 

Honomu 

Onomea 

Papaikou 

Hilo  Town 

(Puna) 

Keaau  (Nine  Miles) 

Mountain  View 

Pahoa 

Kapoho 

Kalapana 

(Kau) 

Pahala 

Hilea 

Honuapo 

Naalehu 

Waiohinu 

(Kona) 

Papa 

Hookena 

Honaunau 

Napoopoo 

Kealakekua 

Konawaena 

Keauhou 

Holualoa 

Kailua 


PLANTATIONS 

(Hamakua) 

Pacific  Sugar  Mill 
Honokaa  Sugar  Co. 
Pauhau  Sugar  Plan- 
tation Co. 
Hamakua  Mill  Co. 

(Hilo  and  Puna) 

Kaiwiki    Sugar  Co. 

(Ookala) 
Laupahoehoe  Sugar 

Co. 

Llakalau  Plantation 
Co. 

Honomu  Sugar  Co. 
Pepeekeo  Sugar  Co. 
Onomea  Sugar  Co. 
Hilo  Sugar  Co. 
Hawaii  Mill  Co. 
Waiakea  Mill  Co. 
Olaa  Sugar  Co. 

(Kau  and  Kona) 

Hawaiian  Agricul- 
tural Co. 

Hutchinson  Sugar 
Plantation  Co. 

Kona  Development 
Co. 


CAPES 

Kahakuloa  Point 
Kauiki  Head 


BAYS 

Kahului 
Maalaea 
Hana  Bay 


MAUI 

PLACES 

Lahaina 
Olowalu 
Waikapu 


PLANTATIONS 

(Lahaina) 
Pioneer  Mill  Co. 
Olowalu  Co. 


APPENDIX  A 


123 


MAUI  —  Continued 


MOUNTAINS 


Haleakala 
Puu  Kukui 
Eke 


Kahului 

Keanae 

Nahiku 

Hana 

Kipahulu 

Kaupo 

Makena 


HEIGHT 

10,032  feet 
5,788  feet 
4,500  feet 


LANDINGS 


Kihei  (Maalaea 

Bay) 
Olowalu 
Lahaina 
Kaanapali 

(Kekaa) 
Honolua 


PLACES 

Wailuku 

Waihee 

Kahului 

Puunene 

Spreckelsville 

Paia 

Haiku 

Hamakuapoko 

Makawao 

Pauwela 

Huelo 

Keanae 

Hana 

Kipahulu 

Kaupo 

Ulupalakua 

Kihei 


PLANTATIONS 

(Wailuku) 

Wailuku  Sugar  Co. 

Hawaiian  Commer- 
cial and  Sugar 
Company  Planta- 
tion 

(Makawao) 

Maui  Agricultural 
Co.  (Paia) 

(Hana) 

Kipahulu  Sugar  Co. 
Kaeleku  PlantatiVn 
Co. 


KAUAI 


CAPES 

BAYS 

PLACES 

PLANTATIONS 

Haena  Point 

Hanalei  Bay 

Lihue 

Kilauea  Sugar  Plan- 

Hanamaulu Bay 

Kapaia 

tation  Co. 

Nawiliwili  Bay 

Hanamaulu 

Makee    Sugar  Co. 

Kapaa 

(Kealia) 

Kealia 

Lihue  Plantation 

MOUNTAINS 

Anahola 

Co. 

HEIGHT 

Kilauea 

Grove   Farm  Plan- 

Waialeale . 

.    5250  feet 

Kalihiwai 

tation  (Planters 

Hoary  Head  (Haupu)        .    2030  feet 

Hanalei 

only) 

Kilohana  Crater        .       .    1 100  feet 

Wainiha 

Koloa  Sugar  Co. 

Haena 

McBryde  Sugar  Co. 

Koloa 

Hawaiian  Sugar  Co. 

LANDINGS 

Lawai 

(Makaweli) 

Eleele 

Gay  and  Robinson 

Nawiliwili 

Wainiha 

Hanapepe 

(Planters  only) 

Ahukini 

Koloa 

Makaweli 

Waimea  Sugar  Mill 

Kapaa 

Port  Allen 

Waimea 

Co. 

Anahola 

Lawai 

Kekaha 

Kekaha  Sugar  Co. 

Kilauea 

Makaweli 

Mana 

Hanalei 

Waimea 

124 


APPENDIX  B  —  APPENDIX  C 


MOLOKAI  OTHER  ISLANDS 

MOUNTAINS                  LANDINGS  height 

HEIGHT  Lanai       .      .    3400  feet 

Kamakou     .    4958  feet            Kaunakakai  Kahoolawe       .    1472  feet 

Olokui  .       .    4600  feet            Kamalo  Molokini  .       .     160  feet 

Pukoo  Niihau      .      .    1300  feet 


APPENDIX  B 

DISTANCES 

Honolulu  to  MILES 

Kalaupapa     52 

Lahaina   72 

Kahului                                                        .       .       .       .       .  90 

Hana   128 

Maalaea   86 

Makena   96 

Mahukona   134 

Kawaihae   144 

Kailua  on  Hawaii   157 

South  Point  (Ka  Lac)   233 

Honuapo        .   244 

Hilo  (direct)   192 

Hilo  (via  Kawaihae)   230 

NawiliwiU   98 

Koloa     .   102 

Waimea                                                                     .       .       .  120 

Hanalei   125 


APPENDIX  C 

MILES  WIDE 

Oahu  Channel  (Kaiwi)   23 

Molokai  Channel  (Pailolo)   8 

Maui  Channel  (Auau)   7 

Hawaii  Channel  (Alenuihaha)                                                      .       •  26 

Kauai  Channel  (Kaieie  Waho)   63 


APPENDIX  D  —  APPENDIX  E  125 


APPENDIX  D 


Area  in 
Square  Miles 

Length  in 
Miles 

Width  in 
Miles 

Population 
1920 

Hawaii 

4015 

90 

74 

64,895 

Maui  .... 

728 

46 

30 

36,080 

Molokai 

261 

40 

9 

1,784 

Lanai .... 

139 

21 

8 

185 

Kahoolawe . 

69  . 

14 

7 

3 

Oahu  .... 

598 

46 

25 

123,496 

Kauai 

547 

25 

22 

29,247 

Niihau 

97 

18 

7 

191 

Midway 

31 

Total  . 

6454 

255,912 

APPENDIX  E 

REFERENCES  TO  HAWAIIAN  GEOGRAPHY 
Adverhser,  Daily,  Jubilee  Number,  July  2,  1906. 

Agricultural  Resources  and  Capabilities  of  Hawaii,  Wm.  C.  Stubbs,  Ph.D. 
Annexation  of  Hawaii,  HawaiVs  Young  People,  September,  1898. 
Arbor  Day,  Origin  of,  HawaiVs  Young  People,  April,  1901. 
Birds,  Hawaiian,  Henshaw,  Hawaiian  Annual^  1902. 

Cold  Current  System  of  the  Pacific,  Dr.  Bishop,  Hawaiian  Annual  1905,  page  74. 

Commercial  Pacific  Cable,  Hawaiian  Annual,  1904. 

Cook,  Captain,  HawaiVs  Young  People,  Alay,  1900.. 

Feather  Cloaks  of  Kamehameha,  HawaiVs  Young  People,  May,  1900. 

Feather  Work,  Hawaiian,  HawaiVs  Young  People,  Nov^ember-December,  1900. 

Fire,  Hawaiian  Traditions  of  Origin  of,  HaivaiVs  Young  People^  October,  1900. 

Flora  of  Hawaiian  Islands,  Hillebrand. 

Geology  of  Oahu,  Dr.  Bishop,  Hawaiian  Annual,  1901,  page  49. 
Geology  of  Oahu,  Dr.  Hitchcock. 

Government  of  T.  H.,  Synopsis  of,  HawaiVs  Young  People,  October,  1907. 
Haleakala,  C.  W.  Baldwin,  HawaiVs  Young  People,  April,  1898  (1899  outside 
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126 


APPENDIX  F 


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Hawaii,  Geography  of,  C.  W.  Baldwin,  HawaiVs  Young  People,  September,  igoi 
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Hawaiian  Islands,  How  Formed,  C.  W.  Baldwin,  Hawaii's  Young  People,  February, 

1898  (1899  on  outside  cover). 
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Kapa  Making,  HawaiVs  Young  People,  October,  1900. 

Kilauea,  Crater  of,  C.  W.  Baldwin,  Hawaii's  Young  People,  November,  1900. 
Land  Shells  of  the  Hawaiian  Islands,  D.  D.  Baldwin,  HawaiVs  Young  People,  May, 
1900. 

Lava  Flow  of  1899,  C.  W.  Baldwin,  HawaiVs  Young  People,  March-May,  1900. 
Lava  Flows  of  Hawaii,  C.  W.  Baldwin,  HawaiVs  Young  People,  January,  1902. 
Lavas  and  Soils  of  the  Hawaiian  Islands,  Walter  Maxwell. 

Maui,  Geography  of,  C.  W.  Baldwin,  HawaiVs  Young  People,  February-November, 
1899- 

Maui,  Geography  Stories  of,  C.  W.  Baldwin,  HawaiVs  Young  People,  November, 
1899- 

Maui,  Mountains  of,  D.  D.  Baldwin,  HawaiVs  Young  People,  May- June,  1901. 

Maui  and  Alae  Birds,  Harriet  F.  Coan,  HawaiVs  Young  People,  October,  1897. 

Maui  and  Sun,  HawaiVs  Young  People,  June,  1897. 

Maui  Snaring  Sun,  HawaiVs  Young  People,  January,  1901. 

Natural  History  of  Hawaii,  W.  A.  Bryan. 

Planter^ s  Monthly,  bound  volumes. 

Poi  Making,  HawaiVs  Young  People,  September,  1900. 

Sandal  Wood  Trade,  Hawaiian  Annual,  1905. 

States  and  Territories,  Difference  between,  HawaiVs  Young  People,  November, 
1898. 

Sugar:  Its  Status  and  Development,  L.  A.  Thurston,  Jubilee  Number  Advertiser, 
page  31. 

Trees,  Historical  Hawaiian,  HawaiVs  Young  People,  April,  1901. 
Umi,  Story  of,  Dr.  Alexander,  HawaiVs  Young  People,  April,  1897. 
Vancouver,  Captain  George,  HawaiVs  Young  People,  September,  1900. 
Waipio  and  Waimanu,  Hawaiian  Annual,  1901,  page  143. 


APPENDIX  F 

PRONUNCIATION  OF  HAWAIIAN  WORDS 

A  is  sounded  as  in  father,  e  as  in  they,  i  as  in  marme,  0  as  in  note,  u  as  in  rz/le 
or  as  00  in  moon. 

*  A  i  when  sounded  as  a  diphthong  resembles  the  English  ay  in  the  word  aye  (yes), 
or  the  English  i  in  bite ;  and  au  resembles  the  English  ou  in  loud.. 

The  accent  of  most  of  the  words  in  the  Hawaiian  language  is  on  the  penult  (the 
syllable  next  to  the  last).  A  few  of  the  proper  names  are  accented  on  the  final 
syllable,  as  Hanapepe',  Kamalo',  Waikiki',  etc.    W  is  sometimes  sounded  as  v. 


INDEX 


Aa,  lo,  II 
Ahukini,  ii8 
Aiea,  43,  49 

Alcohol,  manufacture  of,  28,  102 
Allen,  Port,  118 
Animals  of  group,  16 
Archipelago,  Hawaiian,  7 
Arid  regions  of  Hawaii,  65 
Area  and  population,  see  Appendix  D, 
125 

Artesian  wells,  ' 
on  Kauai,  42 
on  Oahu,  41,  42 

Bagasse, 

for  fuel,  25 

in  making  paper,  28 
Barking  sands,  116 
Bays, 

of  group.  Appendix  A,  1 21-124 

of  Hawaii,  51,  121 
Beaches  of  Hawaii,  51 
Birds  of  group,  1 7 
Bishop  Museum,  49 

Cable  station,  Oahu,  28,  46 

Capes  of  group,  Appendix  A,  1 21-124 

Castner,  Camp,  45,  50 

Cement,  manufacture  of, 

at  Honolulu,  25 

at  Paia,  102 
Channels  of  group,  see  Appendix  C,  124 
City  of  Refuge,  84,  86 
Cliffs, 

of  group,  10 

of  Hawaii  5 1 
Climate, 

of  group,  13-14 

of  Hawaii,  64-65 

temperature,  13 

trade  winds,  13 


Coffee  industry, 

of  group,  25 

of  Hawaii,  66,  71 
Colleges  of  Hawaii,  31 
Commerce  of  group,  28,  47 
Communication,  see  Railroads,  Wireless 

Telegraph 
Cook,  Captain,  28,  82,  86,  119 
Coral, 

on  Hawaii,  5 1 

on  Kauai,  11 1 

on  Maui,  87 

on  Molakai,  105 

on  Oahu,  34-35 
Craters, 

of  Kauai,  115-116 

of  Hawaii,  58-62 

of  Maui,  90-97 
Crossroads  of  the  Pacific,"  48 
Counties  of  group,  31 

Diamond  Head,  40,  48 

Distances  from  Honolulu,  see  Appendix 

B,  124 
Districts, 

of  Hawaii,  68 

of  Oahu,  46 
Ditches,  see  Irrigation 
Dowsett  Reef,  7 
Drainage,  on  Oahu,  41-42 

Education  in  group,  31 
Eke  craters,  90 
Electricity, 

development  on  Kauai,  118,  120 

used  at  Paia,  102 

used  at  Puunene,  102 

used  in  sugar  mills,  25 
Eleele,  120 
Ewa  Mill,  42,  49 


12 


7 


128 


INDEX 


Experiment  stations, 
federal,  i8 

Planters'  Association,  22 
territorial,  18 

Fertilizer  works,  25 
Fishing  industry, 

of  group,  25 

of  Hawaii,  68 

of  Molokai,  106-107 

of  Oahu,  45 
Fish  ponds,  45,  106 
Forest  belt  of  Hawaii,  65-66 
Forests  of  group,  14-16 
French  Frigates  Shoal,  7 

'^Garden  Island,"  116 
Gardner  Island,  7 
Glenwood,  74,  78 
Government  of  group,  30-31 
Grazing  industry, 

of  group,  25 

of  Hawaii,  68 

of  Kauai,  117 

of  Maui,  104 

of  Oahu,  45 

Haena  caves,  116 
Haiku,  104 
Hakalau,  76 
Haleakala,  91-97 
Hamakua,  70-72 
Hamakuapoko,  103 
Hana, 

district,  104 

town,  104 
Hanalei,  120 
Hanalei  Bay,  in 
Hanalei  Valley,  114 
Hanapepe,  120 
Harbors,  see  list  p.  121 
Hawaii,  51-86 

area,  51,  125 

climate,  64 

districts,  68 

industries,  66 

physical  features,  51 

political  map,  52-53 

relief  map,  56-57 

vegetation,  65 

youngest  island,  10 


Hawaii  National  Park,  62 
Hawaiian  Archipelago,  7 
Hawaiian  Islands,  7-31 

animals,  16-17 

climate,  13-14 

commerce,  28 

education,  31 

government,  30-31 

group,  7,  10 

history,  28-30 

industries,  18-25 

insects,  18 

map,  8-9 

population,  30 

soil,  1 1- 1 3 

surface  features,  10 

vegetation,  14-16 
Hawi,  70 
Heiau, 

at  Kawaihae,  69 

at  Wahaula,  78 
Hiilawe  Fall,  54 
Hilea  Mill,  80 
Hilo,  65 

North  Hilo,  72-76 

South  Hilo,  72-76 
Hilo  Boys'  Boarding  School,  75 
History  of  group,  28-30 
Holualoa,  82 
Honaunau,  86 
Honokaa,  71 
Honolulu,  35,  46-48,  50 
Honolulu  Harbor,  35,  40,  47,  50 
Honomu,  73,  76 
Honuapo,  80 
Hookena,  84 
Hoonaunau,  84 
Hualalai,  57 

Humuula  Sheep  Station,  62 

lao  Valley,  90,  103 
Industries, 

of  group,  18-25 

of  Hawaii,  66-68 

of  Maui,  100-103 

of  Oahu,  42-45 
Insects  of  group,  18 
Irrigation, 

on  group,  22 

on  Hawaii,  69 


INDEX 


Irrigation  —  Continued 

on  Kauai,  117-11  \ 

on  Maui,  100 

on  Oahu,  42 
Isthmus,  Maui,  97 

Kaawaloa,  86 

Kahoolawe,  109 

Kahuku,  50 

Kahului,  103 

Kailua,  82 

Kalapana,  78 

Kalaupapa,  107 

Kalawao,  107 

Kamehameha,  Fort,  50 

Kamehameha  1,  29,  41,  69,  70,  72,  103 

Kamehameha  Schools,  31,  49 

Kapaa,  120 

Kapaau,  70 

Kapapala,  80 

Kapoho,  78 

Kau,  78-80 

Kauai,  1 10-120  " 

area,  110,  125 

districts,  11 8-1 19 

industries,  116-118 

oldest  island,  10 

physical  features,  110-116 

places,  1 19-120 

political  map,  no 

relief  map,  in 

transportation,  118-119 

vegetation,  116 
Kaula,  7 
Kaunakakai,  107 
Kaupo,  104 
Kawaihae,  68,  69 

heiau  of  Puukohola,  69 
Keaau,  78 
Kealakekua,  84 
Kealakekua  Bay,  82,  86 
Keanae,  104 
Keanakakoi  quarry,  57 
"Key  of  the  Pacific,"  10 
Kihei,  104 
Kilauea,  61-62 
Kohala,  68,  70 

North  Kohala,  69-70 

South  Kohala,  68-69 
Kohala  Ditch,  69 


Kohala  Mountains,  53-55,  69 

Kohala  Seminary,  70 

Kona,  North  and  South,  80-86 

Konavvaena,  82 

Koolau  Range,  38-41 

Kukuihaele,  71,  72 

Kula,  102,  103 

Kula  Sanitorium,  103 

Lahaina,  98-99 

district,  97-99 
Lahainaluna  Seminary,  99 
Laie,  50 
Lanai,  108-109 
Land  shells,  17 
Landings,  see  list  pp.  1 21-124 
Latitude  of  group,  7 
Laupahoehoe,  73 
Lava, 

aa,  10 

flows  of  Hawaii,  62-64 

kinds,  10,  II 

pahoehoe,  10,  11 

tree  casts  of  Puna,  78 

tufa,  10,  12 

tunnels,  72,  75 
Laysan  Island,  7 
Lehua,  7 

Leper  settlement,  107-108 
Leprosy  Investigation  Station,  108 
Lihue,  118,  119 

district,  118 
Lime-making, 

at  Honolulu,  25,  45 

at  Paia,  102 

on  Oahu,  45 
Lisianski  Island,  7 
Longitude  of  group,  7 
Loulu  palms,  66 

Machine  shops  in  mills,  25 
Magnetic  Station,  United  States,  50 
Mahukona,  70 
Makawao  district,  99-100 
Makaweli,  118 
Makena,  104 

Manufacturing  of  group,  25 
Maro  Reef,  7 
Maui,  87-104 
area,  87,  125 


130 


INDEX 


Maui  —  Continued 

districts,  97 

industries,  100-103 

irrigation,  100 

physical  features,  87 

plantations,  98,  100,  102,  104 

political  map,  88-89 

relief  map,  92-93 

towns,  103-104 

transportation,  103,  104 
Maui,  East,  91-97 
Maui  Mountains,  West,  87-91,  100 
Mauna  Kea,  55-57 
Mauna  Loa,  58-59,  62,  63 

national  park  area,  59 
Midway  Island,  7 
Military  posts  on  Oahu,  50 
Mokuaweoweo,  58-59,  64 

national  park  area,  59 
Molokai,  105-108 

area,  125 

industries,  106-107 
leper  settlement,  107-108 
map,  106-107 
physical  features,  105-106 
Molokini,  7 

Mormon  settlement,  50 
Mountain  View,  78 

Mountains  of  group,  10:    see  list  pp. 
121-124 

Naalehu,  80 
Napali,  113 
Napoopoo,  82,  84,  86 
National  park  areas, 

Hawaii,  62 

Kilauea,  61-62 

Mauna  Loa,  59,  62 

Mokukweoweo,  59,  62 
NawiUwili,  118 
Nawiliwili  Bay,  11 1 
Necker  Island,  7 
Nihoa  (Bird  Island),  7 
Niihau,  120 

Oahu,  34-50 
area,  34,  125 
artesian  wells,  41,  42 
districts,  46 

important  places,  46-50 


Oahu  —  Continued 
industries,  42-45 
irrigation,  41-42 
military  posts,  50 
physical  features,  34-41 
political  map,  32-33 
relief  map,  36-37 

transportation   and  communication, 
45-46 
Oahu  College,  31 
Ocean  Island,  7 
Olaa,  76-78 
Olokele  Canyon,  114 
Olokele  Ditch,  118 
Organic  Act,  29-30 

Paauilo,  70,  71 

Pacific  Ocean,  map  of,  26-27 

Pahala,  80 

Pahoa,  76,  78 

Pahoehoe,  10,  11 

Paia,  102 

Maui  Agricultural  Company,  102 
Pali,  Nuuanu,  39,  40,  49 
Papaikau,  73 

Paper  made  from  bagasse,  28 

''Paradise  of  the  Pacific,"  14 

Parker  Ranch,  68 

Pearl  and  Hermes  Reef  .  7 

Pearl  City,  49 

Pearl  Harbor,  29,  35,  50 

naval  station,  50 

wireless  station,  46 
Pepeekeo,  76 
Pineapple  industry, 

of  group,  25 

of  Kauai,  117 

of  Maui,  98,  104 

of  Oahu,  44 
Plains  of  group,  40,  53,  62,  65,  100 
Plantations,  see  Appendix  A,  1 21-124 
Plateaus,  see  Plains 
Population, 

of  group,  30 

of  Honolulu,  46 

see  table  ^.125 
Port  Allen,  118 

Pronunciation  of  Hawaiian  words,  see 

Appendix  F,  126 
Puna,  65,  68,  76,  78 


INDEX 


Punaluu,  80 
Punchbowl,  41 
Puunene,  100,  102,  103 
Hawaiian  Commercial  and  Sugar  Co., 

100 

Railroads, 

of  Hawaii,  70,  74 

of  Kauai,  118 

of  Maui,  103 

of  Oahu,  45 

of  plantations,  22 
Rainfall, 

of  Hawaii,  65 

of  Oahu,  41 
''Rainy  City,"  65 
Reciprocity  Treaty,  29 
References  to  Hawaiian  Geography,  see 

Appendix  E,  125-126 
Refuge,  City  of,  84,  86 
Rice  industry, 

of  group,  25 

of  Hawaii,  68 

of  Kauai,  117 

of  Oahu,  44 
Rock  formation  of  group,  10 

Salt  Lake  Crater,  41 
Sand  dunes,  97 
Sandalwood,  66 
Sandstone,  10,  11 
Schofield  Barracks,  45,  50 
Schools, 

of  group,  31 

of  Oahu,  48,  50 
Shafter,  Fort,  50 
Sisal,  45 
Soil, 

lava,  II— 12 

sedimentary,  12 

tufa,  12 

Steamship  routes,  trans-Pacific,  28,  47 
Stock  food,  manufacture  of,  28 
Sugar  industry, 

of  group,  18-22 

of  Hawaii,  66,  71 

of  Maui,  100-102 

of  Oahu,  42-44 

Table-lands  of  Hawaii,  62 


Taro,  68 
Temperature,  13 

Towns  and  villages,  see  Appendix  A, 

121-124 
Trade  winds,  13 
Tninsj)()rtation,  see  Railroads 
Tufa,  JO,  12 

cones,  40-41,  II 5- 1 16 

United  States  Magnetic  Station,  50 

Valleys  of  group,  10,  39,  40,  54-55 
Vegetable  mold  on  Oiaa,  12 
Vegetation, 

of  group,  14-16 

of  Hawaii,  65-66 
Volcanic  formation  of  group,  10 
Volcanoes,  see  Kilauea,  Mokuaweoweo 

Wahiawa,  42,  44,  45 
Wahiawa  Dam,  42-43 
Waiahole  Tunnel,  42 
Waialeale  Mountain,  112-113 
Waialua,  43,  46,  50 
Waianae,  50 

Waianae  Range,  38,  40,  41,  45 
Waiau,  Lake,  57 
Waikiki,  48,  50 
Wailuku,  103 

battle,  103 

district,  99-100 
Waimanu,  68 
Waimanu  Valley,  53-54 
Waimea,  68,  118 
Waimea  Canyon,  115 
Waimea  River,  113 
Waimea  Valley,  112,  113 
Wainiha,  120 
Wainiha  Valley,  112,  114 
Waiohinu,  80 
Waipahu,  43,  45,  49 
Waipio,  68,  71,  72 
Waipio  Valley,  53-54 
Watertown,  50 

West  Maui  Mountains,  87-91 
Wireless  telegraph  stations, 

on  Hawaii,  68 

on  Kaui,  119 

on  Maui,  99 

on  Oahu,  28,  46 


13 


